Food + Drink

Review: Sky35 KL presents an omakase experience plated on Hermès finery

Bold, bougie and beautiful


By Natalie Khoo

Featured images: Sky 35 KL | In-text images: Keith Chong for BURO Malaysia & Sky35 KL
Review: Sky35 KL presents an omakase experience plated on Hermès finery

A decade ago, you could count the number of omakase restaurants in KL with both hands. Today, that number has arguably tripled (we lost count), and one of the latest additions to the scene is Sky35 KL. Some may already be familiar with its sister restaurants in Johor Bahru—Sushi Shin JB and Binchotan JB—both of which have earned raving reviews for their modern omakase offerings. 

Established by restauranteur Ben Yeoh, Sky35 is set to emulate the success of its Johor counterparts with an omakase experience that pays meticulous attention to detail—from the ingredients it uses down to the furnishing and tableware. In other words, when you “leave it up to the chef” at Sky35, you’ll be rewarded with the finest produce, plating and presentation.



Nestled on its namesake floor in Pavilion Embassy along Jalan Ampang, Sky35 KL’s immediate aesthetic appeal isn’t the view, in my humble opinion, but its fine interior ornamentations that beg closer inspection. The first thing that catches my attention as I walk pass the main dining area are the commissioned sumo sculptures created by French artist Arnaud Nazare-Aga—giving the space an offbeat, contemporary touch. 

Stepping into an intimate room further inside where the omakase magic awaits, my eyes are instantly drawn to the ‘Venus Dior’ quartzite counter. Thoughtfully sourced from Brazil, it features silvery blue veins and a semi-translucent finish that radiates a stunning golden glow. Hermès Mosaique au 24 Platinum plates neatly line the table in front of each seat, accompanied by lavish Laguiole cutlery. Frankly, the panoramic vistas of the city skyline are just a bonus on top of the opulence that welcomes guests here. 



Chef John Chang

Behind the counter, Chef John Chang—who also helms Sushi Shin JB and Binchotan JB—takes the stage. Armed with culinary training from his Nobu Kuala Lumpur days and proficiency for ingredient-led menus, Chang’s showmanship is put on display in front of guests as he painstakingly slices, sears, shapes, and plates every ingredient that goes into each course. 

To start, a medley of ikura, scallop and sakura ebi coated in housemade sauce arrives on a crispy rice cracker, delivering sweet and umami nuances with well-balanced textures. Next is a generous trio of sashimi that’s carefully aged for 11 days to enhance flavour: chutoro (medium fatty tuna) topped with Kaviari caviar, otoro (fatty tuna—emphasis on fatty), and uni (sea urchin) served on a deep-fried shiso leaf. 

Kaviari caviar features again in the ensuing course of foie gras croquette, though this time, the tiny black pearls come exclusively packaged for the company by the Parisian supplier. Chang then continues to showcase new spectrums of flavour with a deep fried abalone tempura accompanied by a pungent liver sauce, offering a rich burst of buttery, savoury notes. 

A sushi parade follows, beginning with aged sea bream topped with a sprinkle of sesame seed, and shima aji (yellow jack) atop a bed of red vinegar rice to impart more umami. Torched kinki fish punctuates the show, served with ponzu sauce and daikon to perk up the palate before the heavier sushi courses including uni and otoro deliver an intense flavour punch. Chang points out that the two types of sea urchin served at this juncture differs from that in the first course of the evening, ranging from the sweet bafun uni to the prized murasaki varieties. 

Rounding off the sushi courses is a meat dish for a change—juicy tenderloin served with salt, garlic chips and peruvian chilli-miso sauce. To cleanse the palate before dessert, Chang presents a modest yet nourishing bowl of clam and radish soup. The finale consists of creamy macadamia ice cream with delicate coffee panna cotta and salted caramel milk foam, paired with one of my favourite fruits: Japanese melon. As mentioned, Sky35 KL spares no expense to ensure an elevated omakase experience—and the ingredients and accoutrements pictured above confidently speak to that. 


Sky35 KL currently offers two signature omakase menus for dinner: Kaito Omakase (“Soaring Sea”), priced at RM588++ per person; and Daichi Omakase (“The Earth”), priced at RM988++ per person. A la carte options are also available, as well as an extensive selection of wines, champagnes and sakes. 


Sky35 KL

Address: Level 35-01, Tower B, Pavilion Embassy, 200, Jalan Ampang, Kampung Datuk Keramat, 50450, Kuala Lumpur

Opening hours: Lunch – 12pm to 3pm (last order at 2.30pm) | Dinner – 6pm to 10.30pm

Contact: 018 395 1918

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