Eats-A-Review: What we loved about Maillard Grill, Locus, and The Oriental Park
On your mark, get set, eat
Welcome to the latest installment of Eats-A-Review, where we take you to some of the hottest eateries around the Klang Valley. In this edition, we share our thoughts on three restaurants and shed light on what you can expect during your visit. First, we venture to Maillard Grill for its charcoal-grilled steaks and other fiery delights. Then, we stop by Locus for some thoughtful and tasteful bites by the team behind Li Restaurant. Lastly, we pay The Oriental Park at Suria KLCC a visit to sample its Japanese-inspired all-day dining menu. Keep reading to find out what we loved and what you should order!
MAILLARD GRILL
“Tucked away in Damansara Republik is Maillard Grill, a restaurant known for its juicy aged steaks. Its moody interiors add to its intimate atmosphere, making it perfect for date night or any laid-back occasions you might be celebrating. Headed by Chef Meg Lee, Maillard Grill prides itself on sourcing most of its ingredients from farms in Sabah, Ipoh, and Cameron Highlands. Aside from its signature steaks and Wellingtons, you’ll find a range of salads, sides, soups, and so much more.
“The pièce de résistance of the kitchen is—of course—the charcoal-powered grill that is responsible for all its steaks, meats, and other tastefully charred bites. It’s easy to be spoiled for choice when at Maillard Grill—especially when you get a glimpse of its blackboard detailing all the steaks available—but fear not, we got to try most of the menu to point you in the right direction.
“Starting off our meal was an appetiser trio of Caesar salad, heirloom tomato salad, and beef tartare. Unlike other Caesar salads we’ve had before, Maillard Grill’s rendition of the dish combines romaine lettuce, duck lardons, pecorino romano, and charcoal-infused olive oil all doused with an anchovies vinaigrette. With each bite, you’ll get some crunch from the lettuce, fattiness from the duck, and some salty and creamy notes from the vinaigrette. Next, the heirloom tomato salad offers some refreshment with the sweet tomatoes—served fresh and pickled—tossed in a light lemon-dill vinaigrette and pesto. Complementing the tomatoes are barrel-aged feta, toasted walnuts, and a mesclun mix. Finally, the beef tartare—a favourite at the table—comprises chopped raw meat, pickled radish, and toasted pumpkin seeds dressed with grainy mustard and topped with a cured free-range egg yolk. The perfect spoonful combines all elements of the tartare, making for a deliciously rich and slightly tangy bite.
“To choose our mains, we were presented with the restaurant’s portable ‘meat board’, a blackboard detailing all the cuts and weights available for the day. Updated daily, the board can be daunting to some but exciting to those who love their steaks.
We went for a coral-grass aged ribeye, one of the restaurant’s most popular cuts, and a beef Wellington. The ribeye was cooked to medium-rare perfection with a nice char on the outside and a juicy inside. Each slice was made even better with a pinch of salt and some herb butter. The beef Wellington was also worthy of applause with its buttery and flaky pastry and tender meat. The duxelle mushrooms added a hint of umami to each morsel, while the truffle au jus gave the dish a luxe finish.
“Your vegetarian friends are also welcome at Maillard Grill! There are several meat-free dishes on the menu that can cater to vegetarians so there is something for everyone at the table.
“For our sides, we chose to have the cream of spinach and artichoke, king eryngii mushrooms with salmoriglio sauce, and triple-cooked fries. The first dish was delightfully silky and paired perfectly with the steak. Meanwhile, the king eryngii mushrooms offered an umami and herby bite to the meal. No meal at Maillard Grill would be complete without its triple-cooked fries. Despite the large cuts, each piece was crispy to the bite but fluffy on the inside, making it the ideal side for any meal here.
“While we didn’t go for dessert, we’re told its panna cotta and spice-poached pear are crowd favourites. All in all, Maillard Grill is a solid choice for any night you’re craving a good steak with scrumptious sides.” —Amanda Fung, Senior Lifestyle Writer
Address: G05, Ground Floor, Republik, Jalan Medan Setia 1, Bukit Damansara, 50490 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 6pm to 11.30pm (Tuesday to Thursday) | 4pm to 11.30pm (Friday to Saturday) | 12pm to 11.30pm (Sunday) | closed on Mondays
Contact: +603 7622 8770
LOCUS
“Locus isn’t your run-off-the-mill restaurant. For starters, it’s only open three nights a week, from Thursday to Saturday. The tasting menu changes every two months, so diners can look forward to creative, original dishes with every visit. On Sundays, the space hosts a Guest Chef Series where industry peers are invited to showcase their culinary talents over lunch—true to its name that represents ‘a centre place for food, drink, workshops, and hospitality experiences.’
“Located in Damansara Jaya—behind its sister establishments, Li and Provisions—Locus is the third brainchild of Head Chef Lim Heng Kit and manager Lee Ziyan. The dynamic duo opened the restaurant in September 2023 after years of planning, culminating in an intimate space that feels like you’re invited to a chef friend’s house party, but more elevated. At the center of the restaurant is a long, onyx counter table that’s ideal for communal dining. Smaller tables fill up the rest of the space for couples and diners who prefer a bit of privacy.
“During my visit, Locus was onto its second tasting menu, featuring five courses that spotlight local produce. But before that, I am presented with freshly grilled bread accompanied by honey butter and trout roe—a decadent start that carb lovers will definitely want more of. The first course reminds me of a sushi roll except with cabbage instead of nori, wrapped around langit rice from Sabah and cured snapper. It is topped with a shiso leaf and served with a kulim aioli and lime zest dip for a refreshing, well-balanced medley of flavours.
“A Seafood Tomato Assam Bisque is next, inspired by Chef Lim’s memory of summertime in Australia with a Malaysian twist. The vibrant colours on the plate reflect this, punctuated by cherry tomatoes and fennel leaves amidst a red sea of golden pomfret, tiger prawn, and squid. Each seafood is well-cooked on its own; but when eaten together with the light bisque and accompaniments, gets lifted into a symphony of appetising notes.
“For the third course, Chef Lim drew inspiration from a yam abacus dish that reflects his Hakka heritage. Here, he swaps the root vegetable for pumpkin gnocchi to achieve a similar chewy texture and appearance. Cured duck ham, shiitake mushrooms, pumpkin seeds, and a pumpkin skin foam elevate the dish further while skilfully (and sustainably) utilising the star ingredient: pumpkin.
“The fourth course is Gula Apong Chicken, comprising chicken breast glazed with gula apong, complemented by red wine jus and soy sauce with charred kale and chestnut ragu on the side. Simple but delicious. Now I’m not really a dessert person, so to say that it turned out to be my favourite dish of the night is no small praise. The combination of carrots, yoghurt and gooseberries surprisingly works well, offering sweet and slightly tart flavours with a firm yet creamy base. At RM258++ for this 5-course menu, Locus colours me satisfied—and intrigued to see what’s on the next menu.” —Natalie Khoo, Deputy Editor
Address: 72 Jalan SS22/25, Damansara Jaya, 47400 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
Opening hours: Thursday to Saturday | 6pm to 11pm
Contact: +60167477950 | [email protected]
THE ORIENTAL PARK
“If you’re a frequent customer at Isetan, you would most likely already be a fan of The Table. As the retailer’s dining concept, it boasts a collection of restaurants that serve premium and authentic Japanese food such as The Tokyo Restaurant and Taverna. Just this January, The Table opened its doors to its latest home in Suria KLCC with the grand launch of its flagship restaurant, The Oriental Park.
“As we stepped into the outlet, we were immediately greeted with a sophisticated and cosy ambience befitting of its name. Combining a stunning alfresco dining area facing the view of KLCC’s lake and park, the restaurant is perfect for all sorts of occasions, from laid-back brunches to corporate lunches.
“The Oriental Park is known for its Pan-Asian fusion cuisine that draws inspiration from Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese and Malaysian gastronomies. With that in mind, we kicked off our maiden visit with an appetiser of tuna sushi roll and a side of avocado salad, which offered clean and light flavours to prep us for our next dish.
“For our main course, we were served Yakiniku Beef Tagliata accompanied by ulam raja chimichurri, blistered shishito peppers, and tomatoes. While the cook of the grilled flank steak was a tad too done than I would have liked, the chimichurri was delightfully zesty and lifted the entire dish. The pairing of the peppers also gave it a good kick of heat.
“Finally, we ended our course with The Table’s signature dessert: the Basque burnt cheesecake. Silky smooth with its custard-like centre, there’s a reason why this dish has earned its famed reputation. We couldn’t think of a better way to conclude our dining experience than with this faultless dessert.
“If you love bold and vibrant Asian flavours, head on over to the all-day dining destination of The Oriental Park at Suria KLCC, where you can enjoy regional dishes and soak up the wonderful vistas of the city’s park and lake.” — Marissa Chin, Lifestyle & Culture Writer
Address: Lot G48, Park Side, The Oriental Park @ The Table, Suria KLCC
Opening hours: 11am to 9pm daily
Contact: +603 2119 26229
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