If you’re thinking about going to Kyoto to explore its sights, don’t let the Higashiyama district go forgotten. Better yet, spend a few nights amidst the greenery and crisp air. We got to live that dream recently, shacking up at the new Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto. To say our stay was special would be a massive understatement. While the Banyan Tree name was enough to impress, the fact that legendary designer Kengo Kuma was behind the vision of the hotel left my jaw on the floor even before I arrived. Known for his seamless integration of design with its surroundings, Kuma made sure to leave his mark all around the property from the white squared timber to the preservation of pre-existing materials.
Japan as a country is known for its impressive integration of the old and new. With that, the self-contained Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto perfectly encapsulates this harmonious pairing, blending clean architectural lines with the natural backdrop of the hills. The annual changing of leaves also happened to be in progress during our visit, which added an extra layer of magic to our stay. Every corner of the property is steeped in taste and tranquility. After all, it is located on Ryozan (or Ryosen), a sacred mountain that is believed to be the boundary between our current world and the next. Below, we break down our stay from check in to check out at the close-to-faultless hotel.
UPON ARRIVAL
Driving up to the hotel was an experience in itself with all the sights to take in. But being in Kyoto, I had to get used to being enamoured with my surroundings 24/7. After making our way up the steep hill in a taxi, we were greeted by a grand façade, featuring an organic stone wall that was once part of the ryokan that used to occupy this lot and a grand hinoki cypress wood gate reminiscent of those you see at shrines.
Also waiting for us was a trio of staff who had polite yet cheerful smiles plastered on their faces. Because we arrived in the wee hours of the morning, we weren’t able to check in yet, but were allowed to freshen up and change before heading out. When we returned at check-in time, we were served a freshly whisked cup of matcha and a delightful kohakuto sweet. As we nibbled and sipped on our welcome treats, we got our check-in process done in a matter of minutes.
Before being escorted to our room, I asked for a few minutes to fully take in the beauty of its lounge, complete with traditional handicrafts by artists with a connection to Kyoto and shoji screens. Encased in neutral hues and natural materials, the space exuded warmth with some gentle natural light streaming in through the leaves from the two minimalist gardens—designed by Place Media—into the lobby. Despite it being located right by the entrance and concierge desks, it was quiet and cosy enough for a good reading session or travel journaling.
THE MAIN ACT
On the property, there are 52 guest rooms, spanning six tiers. Each room was tastefully designed by Yukio Hashimoto, who took inspiration from the Japanese concept of yugen (mysterious, quiet beauty) and the phrase ‘hisureba hana’ (hidden flower) from the Noh theory bible. We were put up in the Grand Onsen Retreat King, which spans a whopping 629 square feet and boasts its own private natural onsen in the bathroom.
To put it simply, its ryokan-style rooms are truly in a class of their own. Quiet, functional, yet undoubtedly luxe is how I would describe them in a nutshell. Our particular abode was the stuff of Japanese minimalist dreams, complete with tatami floors, a pantry, a sitting area, a king-sized bed, a double vanity, and lounge chair. Wafting through the air was the gentle scent of the hotel’s signature original aroma oil, which I promise will put your mind at ease almost instantly.
It was almost as if the room demanded relaxation. With light wooden fixtures accompanied by contemporary inflections, this slice of heaven is exactly what you’ll need after a 21,000 step day exploring the historical city of Kyoto. I mean, imagine walking through the hotel’s doors into a calm lobby and winding down in a room with your very own hiba wood onsen tub. Not to mention, you’ll get to sink your head into a plush slumber atop its mattresses that are not too firm, yet not too soft.
In my experience, coming back to the room was a treat in itself, with tons of space to sift through my shopping loot of the day, sort out laundry, and display all the snacks from the konbini I was ready to tuck into. I’m also not exaggerating when I say I’m pretty sure I had the best sleep of my year over the two nights that I was there—and it wasn’t just because I spent my days all around town.
The night owls—like myself—will also find the plush lounge chair and tatami sitting area useful for getting last-minute work or late night reading done. Our chair happened to be positioned by the window overlooking the garden, which served as a great backdrop for post-shopping lays. You truly can’t go wrong with any room here and the only mistake you can pull is booking too short of a stay.
EAT YOUR HEART OUT
When at Banyan Tree Higashiyama, not only will you be sleeping good, bathing good, and living good. You’ll be eating good too. Restaurant Ryozen is the hotel’s sole restaurant, serving Japanese cuisine in both course and set menu formats. This is also where we got to indulge in an extensive and nourishing Japanese breakfast first thing in the two mornings we were here. Named after the ryokan that previously occupied the lot, the restaurant is calm, collected, and composed—perfect for booting up in the AM as the sunlight basks through the windows and winding down in the PM with the hotel’s Noh stage gently lit in the background.
It might not sound credible for me to say that my morning meals were definitely a highlight during my stay…but they sure were. Admittedly, Japanese breakfasts are up there on my list of favourite experiences, so I might be a little biased. However, I truly believe Restaurant Ryozen’s offerings will do the trick at winning you over.
Served in stunning Japanese ceramic ware and a tiered bento box, the meal comprised everything you needed for a clean and healthy start to the day. With an assortment of pickles, torched mentaiko, yuba vegetable rolls, cold chawanmushi, a steaming heaping of rice, and a bowl of miso soup in front of me, there was not much for me to complain about. Also worth noting is that each morning’s breakfast looked a little different from the day before, which kept things exciting and refreshing.
Also in the hotel’s food and drink portfolio is the sleek Bar Ryozen, located just below the restaurant. While we didn’t manage to grab a drink during our stay, we were given a tour of its offerings and can confidently say any sake enthusiast would be thoroughly impressed with its collection. Eighty percent of its cellar is made up of local sakes from Kyoto itself, while the other twenty percent hail from all over Japan. If you’re not feeling sake, don’t sweat it. The menu also includes a range of notable Japanese whisky as well as signature cocktails to sample.
A COMPLETE STAY
There’s a lot to like about Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto and one of its biggest pulls is that it can feel like a home away from home. Beyond its stately rooms, the hotel has everything you need for an all-encompassing stay.
Firstly, The Spa will surely massage, scrub, and steam your worries away. From the moment you set foot in its vicinity, you’ll be enveloped in the comforting aromas of the signature Banyan Tree scents, signalling for your relaxation to settle in. Also around The Spa is the hotel’s onsen, a multipurpose studio built for self-exercise and meditation sessions, as well as a gorgeous gym that makes up for its smaller size in quality equipment.
On a similar note, the three gardens on the property also encourage serenity, complete with cherry blossom trees that have been there since the grounds’ previous life. At the top of the stairs from the Art Garden is the hotel’s iconic Noh stage. This structure—designed by Kuma—is perhaps the most representative of its dedication to highlighting the natural beauty surrounding the property, while still holding its own.
Just off to its right is a path of upcycled bamboo chips and stalks that leads to the hotel’s private bamboo grove. Majestic doesn’t even cut it. I personally used this little corner of bamboo heaven as an excuse to not make the early morning trek to the Arashiyama forest.
MY VERDICT
If you’ve made it this far, it’d be hard to imagine that my rating for Banyan Tree Higashiyama Kyoto would be anything less than a ten out of ten. From the moment I stepped on the hotel’s grounds to the final goodbye after two nights, I felt incredibly well taken care of. Even in its younger age, the hotel felt incredibly comfortable as if it had broken in its shoes and rid itself of the stiff aura that might suggest it wasn’t well lived-in.
With the quiet hallways and furniture that didn’t seem to have a thread out of place, it still didn’t feel stuffy or cold despite the winter temperatures. The hotel’s location in the hills of Higashiyama gave us great access to the must-see sites of Kyoto, while also being secluded enough from the bustle of its metropolitan streets. The only thing to note is that the closest subway station is quite a walk away. Even then, I would be a fool to say I wouldn’t book another stay here when returning to the city.
BANYAN TREE HIGASHIYAMA KYOTO
Address: 7 Seikanji Ryozan-Cho, Higashiyama-Ward, Kyoto City, 605-0861 Kyoto, Japan
Contact: +81 75 531 0500 | [email protected]
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