On day 5 of the talent show that is PFW AW17, Junya Watanabe performs a second rendition of his punk song, Haider Ackermann kept quiet and Acne Studios brought the house down
Doll lashes and buzzcuts bedecked the montaged callback to a rebellious London town from the mid-seventies. The Brit-slanted mishmash of punk culture sings the same ode to anarchy shown a season prior, only in a different tune from the Berlin street style inspired collection that last walked Junya Watanabe's runway. A medley of intrinsic components to punk fabrications were combined in patchworked pieces of leather, tartan, leopard prints, and floral jacquards, constructed in unconventional shapes and origami-like three dimensional folds. Simpler looks were absent of the chaotic mashups but featured equally as magnetic garments—undeniably wearable tartan dresses executed in deft drapery.
An exclusive palette of black and white with only three exceptions—two instances of electric blue and an elusive crawling gold squiggle as the proverbial cherry topper—set the stage for Haider Ackermann's decidedly silent message. In striking contrast to Spring's intensely hued show, Ackermann presented his razor sharp precision craft in modern tailoring alongside perfectly pruned poufs of dense plumage to soften the edge. Within a collection of refreshed wardrobe classics, nods to trends were not amiss—oversized puffer jackets and knee-high boots have efficiently tacked on the AW17 tag.
Acne Studios backed off the streets this time and nestled in a homey vibe inspired by handmade finger puppets by Paul Klee for his offspring. Jonny Johansson tapped into a rustic femininity for looks that put raw seams, patchwork and convincingly arcadian fabrications in earth tones and workman blues in the spotlight with an intentional off-kilter homespun artfulness to it. The silhouette was long and lean, where adherence to the oversized fad came only in the form of sweeping frocks, cut on the bias, shapeless and spacious from the yoke down.