Elie Saab returned to the Paris runways at Palais de Tokyo with an AW22 collection entitled ‘Fearless Grace’, which was as extravagant as it was bold and brave. For his first live ready-to-wear runway since the 2020 Beirut explosion that affected his city, home and atelier, the designer presented an amalgamation of ravishing fabrics and confident lines brought together by a sense of opulence and minimalism inspired by the early aughts. Click to see every look now.
Did anyone say black pink? No, not the K-pop girl group––we’re talking about the colour palette of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest collection for Valentino AW22, which was unveiled in a bubblegum-swathed showroom at the Le Carreau du Temple in Paris. This season, the creative director collaborated with Pantone Colour Institute to create a custom pink shade––that we can only describe as a pure dopamine hit––for the ‘Valentino Pink PP’ collection, designed to encourage a moment of reflection. “Pink is rampant everywhere, in a total estrangement that includes the set and that is reiterated by the occasional total black and total white intermissions. Pink as a manifestation of the unconscious and a liberation from the need for realism,” the house said in show notes. See every look in the collection now.
For Saint Laurent AW22, Anthony Vaccarello travelled back in time to the height of the movement and drew inspiration from radical activist and publisher Nancy Cunard, who dressed way before her time. What resulted was a contemporary interpretation of her masculine wardrobe––inflected with Art Deco influences––staged inside a box facing the landmark Eiffel Tower. Fluidity ran throughout the collection, with delicate, flute-like dresses and mega-slim trousers rendered in fresh proportions and punctuated by stacks of brash, elemental jewellery. Key outerwear items presented themselves through swathes of faux fur, while the Saint Laurent tuxedo is made slouchier and anew. See every look now.