Set inside the contemporary residence of The Museum of Modern Art, Ralph Lauren debuted a sleek and tailored Autumn/Winter 2022 collection that explored the bold yet refined colour palette of black and white. “When I decided months ago to share my AW22 collection in this intimate experience, there was no war in Ukraine. The tragedy and devastation we are witnessing now was unthinkable,” the eponymous designer shared in show notes. “So in the midst of this sadness, we go forward united in our hope for peace, and our hope for the end of this pandemic and a return to being together. I am so proud to be with you again sharing not only a collection, but an optimism for living that respects the dignity of all.” What transpired was a celebration of the charm of personal style for both women and men, shown through an expression of refined luxury conveyed through sportswear, classic suiting and plenty of juxtaposition. Eveningwear played a strong influence throughout, to reflect the enduring elegance that defines the sophistication of Ralph Lauren’s beloved city New York. See every look now.
The last two times Alexander Mcqueen showed in New York was in 1996 and 1999, under founder Lee Alexander, for the showcase of his era-defining Dante collection and the water-soaked Eye runway. Fast forward to today, and Sarah Burton just returned to New York City to present her Autumn/Winter 2022 collection for the label. The Big Apple has always been close to their hearts, the creative director said in show notes. “It is a part of our community, a place that has always welcomed us, and this season I want to honour that.” Drawing from this sense of togetherness, she was inspired specifically by the humble mycelium, “by the reality of nature as a community that is far, far older than we are”. As such, the show was rooted in the elements of the land, with piles of mulch covering the Brooklyn warehouse venue and unraveling dresses and sweaters embroidered with vivid representations of the fungi. There were also spray-painted suits that harked back to an archival McQueen collection, Number 13, where a pair of robots decorated Sharlom Harlow’s strapless white dress during the show. See every look now.
Burberry is back (to the live runway). Staged off-schedule at Central Hall Westminister in London, Riccardo Tisci’s latest collection for Burberry marked the brand’s first live show after two years, with models ceremoniously marching across a ballroom of banquet tables laid with plates, glasses and cutlery. The collection was a celebration of Britishness, exploring the dichotomies and perspectives that constitute British identity by building upon the brand’s rich history and house codes. “It was important for me to explore what it means to belong, how our roots influence our identity and how the power of community and togetherness is what truly brings meaning to the world,” the Chief Creative officer said. Elements of regalia were contrasted with subcultural influences, while classic British connections and hallmarks of the house––including the iconic trench, the Equestrian Knight Design and oak leaf crest––were refreshed and reconstructed in new iterations. See every look now.
Elie Saab returned to the Paris runways at Palais de Tokyo with an AW22 collection entitled ‘Fearless Grace’, which was as extravagant as it was bold and brave. For his first live ready-to-wear runway since the 2020 Beirut explosion that affected his city, home and atelier, the designer presented an amalgamation of ravishing fabrics and confident lines brought together by a sense of opulence and minimalism inspired by the early aughts. Click to see every look now.
Did anyone say black pink? No, not the K-pop girl group––we’re talking about the colour palette of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s latest collection for Valentino AW22, which was unveiled in a bubblegum-swathed showroom at the Le Carreau du Temple in Paris. This season, the creative director collaborated with Pantone Colour Institute to create a custom pink shade––that we can only describe as a pure dopamine hit––for the ‘Valentino Pink PP’ collection, designed to encourage a moment of reflection. “Pink is rampant everywhere, in a total estrangement that includes the set and that is reiterated by the occasional total black and total white intermissions. Pink as a manifestation of the unconscious and a liberation from the need for realism,” the house said in show notes. See every look in the collection now.
For Saint Laurent AW22, Anthony Vaccarello travelled back in time to the height of the movement and drew inspiration from radical activist and publisher Nancy Cunard, who dressed way before her time. What resulted was a contemporary interpretation of her masculine wardrobe––inflected with Art Deco influences––staged inside a box facing the landmark Eiffel Tower. Fluidity ran throughout the collection, with delicate, flute-like dresses and mega-slim trousers rendered in fresh proportions and punctuated by stacks of brash, elemental jewellery. Key outerwear items presented themselves through swathes of faux fur, while the Saint Laurent tuxedo is made slouchier and anew. See every look now.
Dial S for self-empowering, sensuality. Unveiled in a hot pink, club-like corridor, Sportmax's AW22 collection was a manifesto of empowment through a sartorial deconstruction of deeply-engrained fetishist ideals of the femme fatale (albeit through the male gaze). From Lilith to Hitchcockian muse Kim Novak and pin-up star Jessica Rabbits, iconic archetypes on the big screen and throughout pop culture were reconfigured for the birth of new sex symbols. Hourglass jackets, exaggerated shoulders and androgynous minimalism come together through tailored construction and an exploration of the body to form contemporary interpretations of form-fitting looks, awashed in a twilight palette of black, midnight blue, coffee, nude, alongside pops of fuschia and red. Click to see every look now.
Dreaming of a glamorous post-pandemic night out? Versace has you covered. For AW22, their latest collection turned up the heat with the unmistakable Atelier Versace bustier at its core to usher the house forward for the next generation of modern It-girls. “Our cast of Versace Women for Fall-Winter 2022 is exciting,” Donatella Versace said. “Girls like Avanti, Anyier and Tilly perfectly represent a Versace with new generation attitude and they champion diversity. They embody the energy running through the collection and the looks built on contrast and tension—like an elastic band pulled tight and about to snap-back with a build-up of energy. That feeling is just irresistible to me. It opens new possibilities and makes things happen.” See every look now.