Paris Fashion Week SS24: The best of Loewe, Saint Laurent and more
The grand finale
Paris Fashion Week wrapped up this week and we have all the details! From Saint Laurent’s homage to bold women to Louis Vuitton’s revival of vintage codes, keep reading to learn more about our favourite shows from the City of Lights.
Dior
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Creative director: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Venue: Jardin des Tuileries
Highlights of the collection: In line with the House’s constant dedication to empowering women, the new collection explores the relationship between femininity and feminism while advancing the notion that fashion is a mirror of current times. Along with the significant use of knitwear that flatters the body’s curves, the inclusion of lunar phases, herbal remedies, and mythical creatures into the designs enhances the visual appeal of the line. What’s equally remarkable is Elena Bellantoni’s gigantic, immersive ‘Not Her’ art piece that responds to all the stereotypes that women have traditionally been associated with.
Key pieces from the line: On the runway, one striking detail was the asymmetrical necklines that complemented the metallic choker and one-sided earrings. Elsewhere, the intriguing Eiffel Tower and the Parisian map are translated into motifs gracing the trench coat and voluminous maxi skirt, while the classic bar jacket receives a masculine update with the side-release buckle belt cinching the waist. Our favourites? The ballet flats in gladiator-style, and the top-handle bags in silky soft Macrocannage quilted leather.
Saint Laurent
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Creative director: Anthony Vaccarello
Venue: Eiffel Tower
Highlights of the collection: In front of A-list celebrities like Rosé of Blackpink, Austin Butler and Hailey Bieber, Vaccarello presents 49 looks inspired by trailblazing females like Amelia Earhart and Adrienne Bolland who pave the way in male-dominated fields. Boiler suits and safari jackets, in particular, steal the show with strict shoulders and belted waist. A closer look reveals leather gloves extending to the wrist and massive pockets that lend practicality to each piece.
Key pieces from the line: The combination of sheer tops and cargo trousers is balanced and aesthetically pleasing. Other outfits spotted on the runway were pleated gowns, satin halter neck mini dresses and ankle-length coats in earthy palettes like olive and maroon. Striking accessories such as chunky earrings, metallic bangles, modified aviator shades, and pointed pumps additionally deliver the essential refinement that the label is known for.
Loewe
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: Château de Vincennes
Highlights of the collection: While reductionist aesthetic continues to be a recurring theme, the latest range is centred on the silhouette of everyday wear and its playful proportions. Oversized silhouettes have grown to be the norm, with textural knitwear embellished with gold buttons, vivid sweaters and leather skirts tied with eye-catching pins. The shimmering top formed by green and silver stars that oddly complement the bell-bottom pants is the pièce de résistance of the show.
Key pieces from the line: High-waisted jeans are obviously hard to miss since they come in a selection of shades and fabrics. There are also the unbalanced trench coats and the draped dresses with sweetheart necklines that we predict will appear on the red carpet soon. Aside from Lynda Benglis’s game-changing accessories, the range of bags is outstanding, with the Pebble Bucket bag constructed from smooth and supple-grained calfskin and the Squeeze bag crafted by hand in yellow nappa.
Valentino
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Creative director: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Venue: École des Beaux-Arts
Highlights of the collection: With British singer FKA Twigs and a cast of dancers in the background, Piccioli delivers a collection that celebrates feminine form through the lenses of intimacy and individuality. White ensembles like the T-shirt maxi dress and cinched blazer dominated the runway at first, before multi-coloured pieces with three-dimensional forms of Baroque foliage, fruits, flowers, and animals arose. To achieve this expression, the fabric is sculpted using a new technique called ‘Altorilievo’ or High Relief.
Key pieces from the line: Each look created entirely using the new method is meant to have a lasting impact. These include the maroon lengthy-sleeve dress and the sand-coloured coat. The Valentino Garavani VLogo Moon bag additionally elevates the look further with its signature metal logo chain and soft-grained leather.
Balenciaga
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Creative director: Demna
Venue: Cour du Dôme des Invalides
Highlights of the collection: The intimate collection is a tribute to Demna’s closest companions, with his mother opening the show in an upcycled vehicle coat. What comes next are long A-line skirts with detachable panels that result in a short silhouette and outerwear composed of English wool with flattened shoulders sans shoulder pads. The stars of the show? The brand-new Rodeo bag with its hefty decorative chains and the passport wallet with leather boarding passes.
Key pieces from the line: The floor-length coats with boxy shoulders are always a classic choice. A significant twist, however, exists in the union of seven wedding gowns from the early 200os, and the airy evening wear constructed from vintage linens. In footwear, the stilettos and classic derbies double as clutches, while the limited-edition Cargo trainers debut with exaggerated form.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Nicolas Ghesquière
Venue: 103 Avenue des Champs-Élysées
Highlights of the collection: The fresh offerings are an invitation to embrace vintage style with a hint of Parisian elegance. The two-tone leather bomber jacket, in particular, instantly transports us back to yesteryear when it shows up with ruffled skirts and large, statement belts. On the other hand, the pairings of pinstripe fabrics and plaid patterns with plain designs are done tastefully by adopting matching tones.
Key pieces from the line: The leather bustier top with tulle skirts and the modified dungarees with an off-the-shoulder drape top inside are clearly show-stoppers. Similarly, the glossy, figure-hugging dresses are stunning. Last but not least, don’t miss out on structured accessories like the Polaroid camera bag and the mini trunk bag.
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