Paris Fashion Week SS26: The Best of Dior, Balenciaga and more
Runway recap
Three weeks on from Paris Fashion Week, the runways continued to inspire conversation. From Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut at Balenciaga to Jonathan Anderson’s playful take on Dior, designers delivered a compelling mix of audacious vision and classic grace. Here are five shows that defined the season.
Dior
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: Jardin des Tuileries
Collection highlights: Anderson approached his womenswear debut with a playful respect for the House’s heritage. Bows, central to Dior’s language, were more than decoration—they transformed coats, softened lace, and twined through cotton skirts. The show’s centrepiece, an inverted LED pyramid, flashed Dior’s history in reverse before collapsing into a shoebox. It was clever, a little haunting, and somehow very Dior.
Key pieces: The shrunken Bar jacket returned, confident as ever, while bell-shaped dresses layered in bows added playful drama. Accessories carried the same wit: a single top-handle bag adorned with a Dior charm, and heels marked with letters, finished in plaid, or accented with bows.
Valentino
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Creative director: Alessandro Michele
Venue: Arab World Institute
Collection highlights: Inspired by a 1941 letter from Pier Paolo Pasolini, ‘Fireflies’ transformed the runway into a luminous narrative. Michele’s signature palette of vibrant hues, combined with intricate embroidery and ornate detailing, turned each look into a statement of craftsmanship. The finale gathered all the models under beams of light, casting fashion as both defiance and joy.
Key pieces: Sunshine-yellow halter-necks, electric-blue one-shoulder dresses, wine-red leather suits demanded a second look. Mini dresses with sharp shoulders and ruched tops flirted with bows. Firefly-inspired accessories—chunky necklaces and chandelier earrings—sparkled like sparks, while peep-toe heels for women and dress shoes for men made every step count.
Miu Miu
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Creative director: Miuccia Prada
Venue: Palais d’Iéna
Collection highlights: Prada turned the humble apron into a canvas for imagination. On the runway, it was utilitarian yet ornamental, strict yet playful, practical yet poetic. The hypostyle hall became a surreal domestic stage, dotted with fields of clashing Formica tables, where everyday ritual met high-concept spectacle.
Key pieces: Cotton poplin, silk cloqué, lace, and embroidered canvas aprons layered under studded leather jackets, soft knits, or boldly worn alone. Shoes were just as varied: mules, strappy sandals, ankle boots, and white sneakers added a sharp finish to the layered looks.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Nicolas Ghesquiere
Venue: The Louvre
Collection highlights: Ghesquière’s collection revived the indoor wardrobe with theatrical sophistication. Voluminous silhouettes, draped fabrics, and the contrast of glossy silk against soft wool created effortless movement and elegance. A hint of 1940s Hollywood lingered in the folds and lines, without feeling dated.
Key pieces: The runway stayed neutral, showcasing jacquard dresses, robe-like coats, and silk kaftans. Sculptural white dresses cinched with scarves and ruffled ombré gowns swayed with every step. Accessories—from dusty-rose Speedys to pink-striped Side Trunks and red-lined cosmetic pouches—added personality without shouting.
Balenciaga
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Creative director: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Venue: 40 Rue de Sévres
Collection highlights: Piccioli injected fresh energy into Balenciaga, redefining femininity through structure and craft. Volumes were soft but architectural, while feathers and flowers in self-fabric became part of the shapes rather than a superficial flourish. Neo gazar, a new textile blending gauze and organza, gave form without weight.
Key pieces: The runway balanced order and disruption. Sleeveless tops with matching trousers felt orderly, but cropped leather T-shirts with feathered skirts or floral bomber jackets with long shorts shifted the rhythm. Opera gloves and oversized sunglasses framed faces like armour, giving the looks a quiet toughness.
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