Sood by Chef Ton Breathes A Gust of Fresh Thai Air into Penang’s Dining Scene

Our thoughts on Sood by Chef Ton, George Town’s latest Thai dining destination where bold yet timeless flavours come to play. 

George Town’s local dining scene got off to a fiery start this year with the opening of Sood by Chef Ton. It was an arrival so buzzy that the hype travelled down south to the capital too. I mean, is there any other suitable reaction for an opening by the revered Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn? Having more than a few Michelin stars and accolades on the world stage, chef Ton’s touch is always a welcome addition to any city. 

Don’t let the white exteriors of the 150-year-old building that the restaurant and its sister bar So-od are situated in fool you. Within its walls lie vibrant interiors that reflect the spirited yet sophisticated cuisine that flies out of its kitchen. Curated by both chef Ton and chef de cuisine Nutz Nutthasak, Sood’s menu is one that toes the line between fun and heritage. While it puts the spotlight on the deep, punchy flavours that Thai food is known for, it also brings some fresh energy to the dishes that have long been staples in the cuisine. We recently headed up north to get a taste of Sood by Chef Ton’s dining experience and you can read all about it below. 

THE INTERIORS

A little eccentric (in the best ways possible) and all-around playful, the Sood by Chef Ton space is nothing short of memorable. As we walked the entryway and head into the dining area, we were greeted with a bright and striking red interior that immediately set the scene for what our experience was going to be like.  Worth mentioning is the carpet that lines the hallway’s floors, designed with a print of the aerial view of George Town. As the restaurant is situated in a former residence, the tables are spread out through different rooms, each with its own vibe. Throughout the space, you’ll spot some art pieces that were made just for the restaurant, including a wire sculpture similar to the iconic ones that dot the streets of the city. 

STARTERS & DRINKS

To get the full Sood by Chef Ton experience, we were served its signature tasting menu. The starting course comprised two components: Golden Cup Caviar and a Thai fishcake. The former is the restaurant’s ode to a classic Thai curry. Presented as a tartlet filled with a chicken curry mousse, the bite was the perfect textural combination. The caviar topping was quite literally the cherry on top, providing a subtle touch of salinity that was a welcome addition to the curry’s creaminess. 

Similarly, the Thai fishcake was also a remixed take on the staple, which happens to be a personal favourite. Naturally, I was excited for this particular bite and was not disappointed in the slightest. The dish was presented as a fritter, topped with a coriander cracker, cucumber discs, and edible flowers. Made with fresh mackerel, the overall flavour profile was a delightful balance of spice and tang. The cocktails here are also worth a mention as they showcase Thai essences within memorable drinks that are easy to appreciate. 

SAVOURY PLATES

The menu presents a choice of three savoury plates and we were presented with two: the crispy fish flake salad and a squid with red seafood sauce. The former was chef Nutz’s rendition of a classic fruit and salted fish salad. Placed as shards atop the salad mix, the dried fish floss was particularly intriguing with a light and airy bite to it. Once crushed and mixed, t was the perfect accompaniment to the refreshing combination of green mango, cherry tomato, apples, and homemade fish sauce. For anyone who appreciates a good salad with different textures and offbeat flavour combinations that just make sense. 

Meanwhile, the squid dish was also a welcome plate on the table that let the herbs do the talking. The mild and perfectly bouncy squid was simply prepared and served alongside a sharp and spicy dressing—a lethal combination if you’re one for the signature Thai spice and seafood. Despite the kick from the sauce itself, it didn’t take away from the enjoyment of the dish and it was quickly lapped up. 

SOUP

If you’re a soup person like I am, Sood by Chef Ton’s galangal smoked grouper broth is going to be one for your books. Flavour-wise, it was complex yet so simple to enjoy and the grouper fillet prepared matsukasa style added some substance to the overall dish. The soup itself was a combination of galangal, lemongrass, smoked grouper (of course), charred mushrooms, and a heavy-handed serving of dried chilli that simmered for six hours before being served. Though, approach with caution as the spice is not for the faint-hearted! 

MAINS

When the time for mains rolled around, my stomach was adequately lined and ready for more. Luckily for me, we were presented with a hearty trio of protein-forward dishes: a grilled chicken green curry, the signature ox tongue soy sauce, and a lamb massamun curry that was presented as a treat from the a la carte menu. All three proteins were prepared with a sous vide before being charred on a grill and served. 

The grilled chicken was perfectly cooked, while the accompanying curry was just the right amount of herby and creamy. Next, the lamb massamun curry was a rich, nutty, and bold addition to the meal, which I thoroughly enjoyed. The lamb was undoubtedly cooked well, but the curry stood out as the star of the show. Warm, comforting, and slightly nutty, it was a silky delight that ended up being the perfect pairing for the lamb. 

Finally, the ox tongue soy sauce was a personal favourite. Though I’m always partial to this offal, its preparation and accompanying soy sauce-based dressing made the dish unlike any other. Of course, such dishes are never complete without a heaping serving of rice too! 

DESSERT

Dotted with the staple flavours of the cuisine, the final course was a familiar yet exciting way to end the meal. The Thai tea cheesecake combined two foolproof treats. Unsurprisingly, the combination was a hit at the table with the cheesecake being silky smooth and the Thai tea being the perfect amount of sweet. 

However, the khao neaw ma muang parfait easily took the title of favourite dessert. It layered all the components of mango sticky rice with a pandan ice cream and fresh cream. A contemporary take on an undeniable icon of Thai cuisine, the mango sticky rice-based dish was a satisfying ending to a soulful meal. 

Based on our meal here, it is evident that chef Nutz and his team know exactly what they’re doing in the kitchen. With every course that arrived, their dedication to ensuring the flavours of Thailand sung throughout each bite was evident. On chef Nutz’s part, his youthful and carefree energy coupled with his deep knowledge of Thai cuisine and storied kitchen experience has clearly steered the restaurant in the right direction. Though tucking into grub that isn’t George Town’s storied street food might not be on the agenda for all while in Penang, a stop at Sood by Chef Ton will not be regretted. 

SOOD BY CHEF TON

Dishes we’d order again/will try next time: Botan ebi with fish sauce, crispy fish flake salad, galangal smoked grouper soup, grilled squid, grilled river prawn, crab fried rice, ox tongue soy sauce, mango sticky rice parfait

Vegetarian/vegan-friendly?: No, limited options available. 

Pork-free?: Yes

Address: 33, Lebuh Farquhar, 10200 George Town, Pulau Pinang

Opening hours: 5pm to 1am (daily)

Contact: +6019 898 2131

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