Fashion month is back, with the first quarter of the Autumn/Winter 2022 season kicking off in the Big Apple from February 11 to 16 via a mostly IRL schedule despite the surge of Omicron.
Gear up for a busy week as a lengthy list of new-gen talents and designers who have historically shown in New York will be taking centerstage, including Michael Kors, Tory Burch, Coach, Anna Sui, Joesph Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Telfar, Peter Do, Proenza Schouler and more. Check out the full NYFW schedule here.
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Meanwhile, Tom Ford, who was initially scheduled to close New York Fashion Week, announced last month that he would be eschewing his runway show for a digital lookbook due to the pandemic. For similar reasons, Marc Jacobs will also be sitting out, while Thom Browne has pushed his show to April 29.
Other notable changeups to the season include Moschino‘s runway return to Milan, alongside Alexander McQueen‘s plan to showcase in New York on March 15 as they continue to break away from the traditional schedule.
To help you stay in the know, we’ll be updating this page with the shows you want to read about as it goes down. So lie back, hit bookmark and read on for our rolling guide of the first major fashion week of AW22 and the low-down of everything in-between:
Coach
When: Tuesday, 15 February at 3am Malaysia time
Last season, Coach paid tribute to the brand’s first designer Bonnie Cashin with a youthful, retro collection full of statement prints. Not much has been revealed yet for the Coach AW22 show (besides its old Americana-themed header), but catch it live below or on the brand’s Instagram and Youtube and check back for post-show highlights.
Post-show highlights:
Ahead of the Coach show in New York, guests all around the world received a Coach-centric neighbourhood newsletter and an all-American apple pie “made with love” from Stuart Vevers. “Welcome to the neighbourhood!” the welcome letter read. “We’re so glad you’re here.” It went on to describe a town “somewhere in America”, “that may feel familiar, as if from a dream”, “where it’s always the golden hours and things are happening on the street, inside our homes, and in our hearts”. When the countdown reached zero, the short film began online with scenes of that very golden glow shining through the trees before we were presented with an imagined American neighborhood envisioned in the house’s heritage color palette, also known as Coachville, USA.
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Twirling the wires of her yellow landline, a woman sat chit-chattering by the window, as a trenchcoat-wearing neighbour strolled along the spotlighted path with the area’s local Afghan hound. Two boys perched atop the next-door roof, while a pair of cyclists roamed through the darkness, with their shadows trailing closely behind. These were all familiar (Coachville) characters, neighbours that Vevers imagined living in the friendly provincial neighbourhood, setting the stage for a place that felt both sentimental and bittersweet.
“My collections often begin with a feeling, and for Fall, the feeling was love,” said the creative director. “To express this, the collection explores tensions between romance and toughness to reinvestigate Coach heritage. I liked the idea of creating a nostalgic world somewhere in America seen through a widescreen lens, mixing the energy of today with the nostalgia for pop culture that has always inspired me.”
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The lights turned on, casting a beamed runway as the first model resident strutted out to signal the start of the show. The new collection embodied its surroundings––wholesome but with a hint of mystery, romance and youthful rebellion in the air. Various versions of the classic shearling jacket enveloped bodies in a comforting embrace, evolving into graphic renditions with printed patterns and neon-dyed fur and worn over bras-as-tops, bare skin and graphic tees, which were then almost always accessorised with leather chokers, caps and combat boots. There was almost a fetish-like take on the repurposed material, as Vevers explored leather in a myriad of ways throughout the collection, and through the brand’s own associations (Coach is known as the original house of leather).
A succession of dainty peter-pan collared dresses developed into manifestations in all-over lace or crochet that got more and more glamorous as the show went on, styled with the same leather accents (though some were paired with candy-coloured renditions and shiny heeled Mary Janes) to create looks reminiscent of the grungy indie sleaze of the Tumblr era. Nostalgia was abound, sprinkled throughout the joy of dressing up, then applied to the everyday. Closing the show was a series of leather-heavy looks, hand-graffitied by artist duo Mint & Serf, and paired with accessories that carried touches of the signature Coach monogram.
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On the arm candy front, a limited-edition Cashin Carry Sling bag (only 75 pieces are availabe) was brought back from the 1964 archives, and reimagined in supple Glovetanned leather. Vevers also debuted his newest accessory, the Bandit bag, a structured leather box bag that appeared in the shape of a square or rectangle, worn over the shoulder, crossbody or as a top-handle. One thing’s for sure: All roads lead to Coachville.
See every look from Coach’s Autumn/Winter 2022 collection here.
Tory Burch
When: Tuesday, 15 February at 7am Malaysia time
With posters plastered all over the streets of New York, Tory Burch will unveil their Autumn/Winter 2022 collection this week––tune into the livestream of the show below, or via the brand’s Instagram.
Post-show highlights:
High above the Big Apple’s glittering cityscape, Tory Burch’s first nighttime show took place on the 25th floor of the Hudson Commons. How fitting it was that the collection debuted on Valentine’s Eve––it was a love letter to the American city, with a runway set framed by the historic neon marquee of The New Yorker Hotel. Following September’s show-turned-block-party on Mercer street in support of local businesses, Burch continued her tradition of giving back, contributing to the restoration fund for the hotel’s red sign. Whereas pre-show posters were plastered all over the streets, light installations teasing the show were placed at the Union Square and eight other landmarks, alongside livestreams taking place in four locations.
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This season, the designer looked towards iconic fashion photographer Bill Cunningham‘s street-style photos for inspiration, drawing across his snaps from the ’70s to the ’90s and comparing them with present-day sidewalks. What she saw was the women of New York City––the starting point of the new collection––as unique individuals who turn heads and catch eyes in fleeting moments. And for these women, she built a wardrobe made up of sculpted shapes, graphic colours, convertibility and contrasts pieced together by the spirit of American sportswear that acts as the connecting threads across Burch’s collections.
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Garments were full of energetic personality, arriving in the form of neon track jackets, tweed pleated pants, skirts with asymmetric dropped waists, cinched with wide belts and various print-on-print knits that felt like they came with a story. Tailoring was a significant focus, evident within the intricate, hand-finished interiors of jackets and coats, while the collection’s hero blazer featured curved hips intentionally constructed to fit without buttons or closures. Handbags were presented in classic shapes, with clever functions, like an expandable gusset on the Spaghetti Strap Bucket that zips open to reveal contrast colours or the brand’s T monogram motif.
It was fashion made for self-expression, with only one requirement: have fun. The looks coalesced in a parade of elegant swirling jersey dresses made for the dancefloor, cementing Burch’s liberating move forward in the post-pandemic world.
See every look from Tory Burch’s Autumn/Winter 2022 collection here.
Michael Kors
When: Wednesday, February 16 at 9am Malaysia time
For Autumn/Winter 2022, Michael Kors will unveil his latest collection with a show that continues the designer’s celebration of his hometown, New York City––this season focusing on the energy and allure of the Big Apple at night. Grammy Award-winning artist Miguel will also take to the stage with a special musical performance that will provide as the backdrop for the brand’s first-ever live evening show.
“I’m a native New Yorker and nothing can beat the excitement and energy of the city at night. I think now, more than ever, no matter where you are, everyone is craving a night on the town and stepping out in style,” said Kors. “This is the first time I’ve ever shown my collection to a live audience at night, and everything from the collection to the venue to the performance are all about celebrating a fabulous night out.”
Catch the show live on the brand’s AW22 hub at www.michaelkors-collection.com, as well as YouTube and Instagram.
Post-show highlights:
The New York story continues: Since Spring/Summer 2020, Michael Kors has used his runway shows to shine a spotlight on his hometown. From a New York Restoration Project community garden and the theatre district to last season’s romantic Tavern on the Green event, the designer debuted his latest collection at the iconic music venue Terminal 5 to a euphonious performance by Miguel in Manhattan. Stepping out in the Big Apple was the theme of the show, and it was all about finding an occasion to dress up for and returning to nightlife after years of social distancing.
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“For this show, I wanted to bring the excitement and energy of a night on the town to life—because I think right now, no matter where you are, we’re all craving that,” said the eponymous designer. “And the clothes are really everything you need for stepping up, stepping out and making an entrance.” And so it was, with an A-list front row in attendance, including Blake Lively, Brooke Shields, New York City Mayor Eric Adams, and Ariana DeBose, to boot.
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A stellar cast of supers led the catwalk, with models from Natasha Poly and Adut Akech to Precious Lee, Ugbad Abdi, Alton Mason, Isabeli Fontana and the Hadid sisters dressed to the nines in a collection that toyed with the art of revealing and concealing. Daywear arrived in the form of dramatic hoods upon tonal coats that enveloped the entire body with a blanket-like comfort, held together with a graceful clutch of the hand. Then there were mini hemlines and thigh-high boots as shades of electric fuchsia, orange and yellow popped against grounding hues of camel and chocolate, alongside elegant torso cut-outs that showed just the right amount of skin.
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As expected, the eveningwear cohort was a moment of triumph as minimal but impactful gowns appeared on stage in dedication to going out. Luxe, glittering fabrics twisted around the body, showing off beguiling pailettes and crystal embroidery that sculpted the body in head-turning directions. And echoing the conceal/reveal premise of the collection were sleek stocking boots, sexy stilettos and oversized satchel bags adorned in jewellery. Made in New York? Kors is the definition of it. And this show was a rendition of what he does best in head-to-toe, post-pandemic glamour.
See every look in the Michael Kors Autumn/Winter collection here.
Read more on the AW22 season here.
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