Milan Fashion Week AW26: The Best of Ferragamo, Bottega Veneta, and More
Runway rewind
After stops in New York and London, the fashion week run lands in Milan with a season full of intrigue—Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi, Prada’s intimate show with just 15 models, and Louise Trotter unveiling her second collection for Bottega Veneta. Here are five shows that define the season.
Ferragamo
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Creative director: Maximilian Davis
Venue: Triennale di Milano
Collection highlights: Maximilian Davis revisits the 1920s speakeasy, translating its after-hours energy into contemporary tailoring. Inspired by the fractured geometry of Cubist watercolours and the sepia haze of Surrealist photography, the palette wears a gentle patina of time. Organic cotton canvases and recycled nylons are garment-dyed, while quilted leathers are softly sprayed, imparting a subtle, worn elegance to each silhouette.
Key pieces: A maritime-inspired wardrobe anchors the collection, reworked with deconstructed forms, displaced buttons, and undone fastenings. Nautical knits meet textured parkas, while evening wear spans foiled velvet lamé slips, floral jacquards, and cocooning outerwear layered over long-line gowns. Footwear and bags nod to heritage with deep-vamped slingbacks, apron-stitched Oxfords, and sleek Gancini-fastened bags.
Bottega Veneta
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Creative director: Louise Trotter
Venue: Palazzo San Fedele
Collection highlights: Amid softly illuminated red carpets, Louise Trotter experiments with proportion and texture, transforming everyday garments into gestures of quiet sophistication. Oversized silhouettes curve and fold with fluid ease, while flashes of Intrecciato leather add tactile, heritage-rich detail. Each look feels deliberate yet effortless, balancing flamboyance and restraint.
Key pieces: Statement outerwear leads the lineup, from belted coats with exaggerated shoulders to jackets layered with panels of woven Intrecciato and pleated silk. Brushed shearling adds luxurious softness, while structured top-handle bags tie together the proportions of each look, making accessories feel as decisive as the garments themselves. Loafers and moccasins replace traditional heels, adding understated comfort to otherwise bold silhouettes.
Prada
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Creative director: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Venue: The Deposito of the Fondazione Prada
Collection highlights: The runway thrives on repetition as discovery. Liu Wen, Bella Hadid, and the other 13 models return again and again, gradually revealing the collection’s intricate layers. Fabrics, silhouettes, and details emerge with each appearance, mirroring how clothes live and evolve in real life. The venue itself is filled with artefacts spanning five centuries and diverse cultures, inviting viewers to explore layers of history, identity, and interpretation.
Key pieces: Fabrics play with transparency and structure, from sheer dresses revealing cropped tops to distressed garments with artful cut-away details. Colour becomes a game of surprises: green knits collide with pink cuffs, yellow anoraks are sliced with leopard fur, creating looks that are both bold and mischievous. Tiny kitten heels flirt with embroidered floral socks, while lace-up boots climb to knee height, adding a touch of rebellion to the polished looks.
Onitsuka Tiger
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Creative director: Andrea Pompilio
Venue: Via Vigevano 18
Collection highlights: Rooted in the Japanese concept of ‘Ma’—the meaningful interval between space and time—the collection proposes dressing that exists beyond traditional occasions. Formalwear, casualwear, workwear, and sportswear intermingle freely, with delicate dresses offset by relaxed, utilitarian layers, creating quietly surprising combinations.
Key pieces: Casual ease collides with sharp tailoring. Double-breasted coats with contrast buttons appear alongside two-piece ensembles layered over ruffled floral shirts, while men’s looks feature flower-embroidered fleeces and soft khaki trousers. Footwear takes a contemporary turn with the Mexico 66™ Square and two slingbacks—one pointed leather with a flap and belt, the other revisiting the iconic classic stripes.
Fendi
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Creative director: Maria Grazia Chiuri
Venue: Fendi Milan Headquarters
Collection highlights: For her debut show, Maria Grazia Chiuri emphasises community and co-creation, echoing the pioneering spirit of the five Fendi sisters. The mantra “Less I, More Us” informs a wardrobe that responds to the body’s natural rhythm—intuitive, wearable yet infused with her signature flourishes. The set references Karl Lagerfeld’s curated pieces at Rome’s Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna, bridging the house’s history with a forward-looking vision.
Key pieces: Plunging double-breasted suits, lace dresses with detached fur collars, and bias-cut silk evening wear in sheer, sculpted layers dominate the runway. Textural contrasts take centre stage, from fur-edged vests layered over patchwork jackets to graphic-print tees, adding tactile dynamism. Baguette and Peekaboo bags come in beaded embellishments and feature longer straps, turning its classics into modern essentials.
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