At a time when social and political turmoil are making most of the headlines across the world, Stella McCartney‘s intent on imbuing a streak of joy within her collection was a welcoming move. She delivered an exuberant mood by way of a vibrant colour palette and timeless tailoring. As per her show notes — “A joyful exploration of British style” — the silhouettes were kept both buoyant and voluminous, to some extent. Highlights include a one-shouldered dress with ruffle detailing in traffic-stopping red, an acid-wash denim utility jumpsuit, and a pair of cognac-hued trousers in faux leather lookalike fabric (termed “Skin-Free Skin” by the designer).
Instead of a reverential design approach at Hermès that we’ve witnessed the past few seasons, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski veered slightly astray from the French house’s codes for SS18. Graphics motifs were aplenty, from a series of checks (in plaids and grids) to a contemporary take on the classic scarf prints. She kept the silhouettes prim — but not stuffy — and equestrian-chic, from roomy leather capes and waist-clinched poncho tops to sleek pencil skirts and double-layered wide-legged trousers.
It doesn’t take a multitude of collections to know that Sarah Burton can humanize the idea of beauty in decay — or, in the case of SS18, deconstruction. The creative director of Alexander McQueen sought inspiration within the gardens of Great Dixter and its ‘sophisticated plantsmanship’ this season, likewise with the objective of designing an optimistic collection. What transpired was an incredible lineup of detail-oriented, hand-crafted dresses and coats, all made to awe and bedazzle. Tiers of ruffles decked a floral organza dress in deep red, while a deconstructed couture dress had trims of embroidered tulle replete with engineered floral motifs. But Burton offered a slew of wearable, tailored clothes that would appeal to the edgy yet girly girl, from off-shoulder leather dresses to reinvented patchworked trenchcoats with a trail of ruffles peeking from the hemline.
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