Elegance reigned supreme at Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Rochas—daytime dresses were long-sleeved and cut below the knee, and worn with sheer knee-high socks. Coats wrapped around the body like a cocoon, belted around the upper midriff, finished off with a crystal-embellished ‘R’. More embellished Rs were found on the top flap of mini sling bags and further high-shine pieces were found in the dazzling fringed skirts and dresses in black and gold. Evening gowns, one in plain black silk chiffon, the other in black lace, were worn with crystal-embellished pointed-toe flats, perfect for dancing the night away in.
The power slogan continues to gain momentum; at H&M Studio the word of the day was ‘Love’, which showed up on dresses, tops, skirts, scarves, earrings and more—all of which, plus the entire collection, were made available for purchase immediately after the show, marking H&M’s first foray into the See Now, Buy Now model. Speaking of post-show, The Weeknd (currently seen on H&M billboards around Paris) performed his biggest hits to a very receptive crowd that included Lucky Blue Smith and Kristina Bazan. Back to the clothes, hot pink looks punctuated a mostly black and white collection, which ran the gamut from frilly bohemian-style dresses to sporty parkas to lacy lingerie looks and fluid blazers, cut for ease of movement. Backstage, a sign read ‘we think this is a time when we should all support each other, show and celebrate love’. Uncharacteristicly, models at the H&M Studio show were all smiling as they took to the runway—now that’s a show of love.
A reunion of sorts expressed the legacy at Dries Van Noten‘s 100th show. He may have dialled down the spectacle in terms of show sets but that blank canvas of just the light, sound and clothes set the perfect stage—zero distractions from the jaw-dropping reunion of his former models who reprised their walk for this milestone celebration. Carolyn Murphy, Alek Wek, Kirsten Owen, Amber Valletta and Liya Kebede were amongst the nineties’ golden girls seen that day and on them, a plethora of prints from the archives—revived and refreshed.
Kenzo never strays from the bold and graphic. This time round, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s answer to updated visuals came by way of criss-crossed fabric manipulations in either collaged plaid numbers or stitched on stripes with trailing strips, and straps. The urban Kenzo wearer will be pleased to find a whole array of outerwear styles to buy soon—oversized parkas with flaps galore, generous coats with nipped in waists and curved sleeves, and ample puffers made to be as reflective as can be. Also sure to fly off shelves: colour gradation in cable knits and languid silks.
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