At Anthony Vaccarello’s second outing at Saint Laurent, guests (which included Jane Birkin, Eva Herzigova and Kate Moss) sat in the courtyard of the yet-to-be-complete HQ on the Left Bank, exposed to the elements, with black Saint Laurent blankets handed out to keep guests warm. A drizzle started as soon as the first look came out — a shiny vinyl minidress paired with ruched knee-high boots, which set the scene for more high-shine looks to come. Whether in leather or vinyl, dresses were either cut to there or had plunging necklines. Structured shoulders and statement ruffles lent a touch of decadent ’80s, with the show finale a blinding procession of crystal encrusted everything — from blouses to sweater dresses and those ruched knee-high boots. Vaccarello also showed mens looks within this collection — leather flight jackets, slouchy trousers and dinner jackets with crystal-embellished lapels, but really, it was the women’s looks that stole the show.
Simon Porte Jacquemus certainly knows how to play to his strengths. The young French designer sought refuge once again to his Provençal roots, this time citing gypsies as inspiration for the AW17 lineup. What transpired was a monochromatic range of strong-shouldered, bold-sleeved coats and tops paired with toreador pants that were either ruched, raised or split on the hemlines. Each look was topped off with quirky-shaped matador and cloche hats alongside pink and yellow upside-down bags—a touch that propelled the collection to Parisian heights instead of gypsy-leaning
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