This season is Vetements’ head talent Demna Gvasalia’s time to shine at Balenciaga, and the newly-appointed Georgian designer proved he could do justice to the house by focusing on what the late Cristóbal Balenciaga did best: Well-tailored fashion-forward looks that women would want to wear in reality. What ensued was a myriad of power women suits (with padded hips, no less), sexy pushed-back necklines that also translated to this season’s latest outerwear—puffy jackets, and floral patchwork frocks towards the end of the show, all in all a well-executed yet not overly contrived collection.
Phoebe Philo however, stayed true to her vision of delivering the most practical separates you can wear across the four seasons. It was a collection devoid of frills and the unnecessary decadence that is wonderfully Céline, if we may put it that way. On a palette of black, ivory, and buttery yellow were staples in exaggerated silhouettes: Relaxed tunics and long shirts made for layering dreams, ruched lamé-like dresses that could effectively reflect the sunlight, and even a blue leather trench that took us by surprise.
At Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci took a more literal approach by referencing one of the world’s oldest civilizations: Egypt. It was a fresh breath of air compared to collections of past seasons (basically reinvented archival pieces) as Tisci rolled out tailored military jackets along with luxe animal prints and psychedelic Egyptian motifs emblazoned on mostly everything but all-black shift dresses. One accessory that caught our eyes? The knee-high “boots” that were actually pumps.
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