Men’s Fashion Week SS27: 8 Shows Everyone Is Talking About

This season, the menswear isn’t about breaking the rules. It is about bending them. Across the runways, designers take the foundations of the wardrobe—the suit, the shirt, the uniform, the sneaker—and shift their meaning through distinctive silhouettes, rich references and new narratives. From Mediterranean escapes to playful fantasy, these eight shows capture the many directions menswear is taking.

Simone Rocha

There’s a gentleness to Simone Rocha’s first menswear outing, even when the structure is strict. Tailoring and shirting form the base, but they are disrupted by embroidered linens, gingham, and silk jerseys that pull everything slightly off-axis. Underlayers appear as outerwear, shifting the idea of what’s hidden and what’s shown.

Florals traced from costume trunk linings and a worn Florentine print feel like fragments of memory. Uniform cues, from aprons to workwear, cut through the softness with a sense of purpose. What’s left is a collection that feels in-between—soft, grounded and quietly undone.

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani’s ‘Mediterranean Market’ carries a sense of escape. Led by Leo dell’Orco, the collection imagines tailoring after it has left the city behind, absorbing the colours and textures of the Mediterranean along the way. The familiar restraint remains, but the silhouettes loosen: safari jackets gain a relaxed attitude, pockets become part of the narrative, knitwear falls longer, and trousers take on a cleaner line. Silvana Armani’s first Cruise collection continues the story with a softer take on menswear, reshaping classic codes with quiet grace.

Dolce&Gabbana

At Dolce&Gabbana, Sicily isn’t a reference point—it’s a state of mind. The designers strip back to a wardrobe built for exposure: to sun, to air and to the gaze. The palette mirrors the island at its peak,  prints of lemons and coastal scenes push the narrative into overt romanticism. Sheer shirts hang loose over the body, shorts are cut to the point of provocation, and denim arrives sun-faded and embellished, as if weathered by seasons of heat. If it borders on indulgent, that’s precisely the intention.

Prada

Prada has always understood that subtraction can hold just as much power as excess. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada push that idea further, distilling the wardrobe down to its most essential forms while keeping every detail loaded with intent. Leather tailoring arrives with a precise, sculpted attitude, while transparent layers bring a quiet sensuality to the silhouettes. The accessories echo this tension, turning pouches into extensions of the silhouette and transforming classic dress shoes with unexpected details.  

Ralph Lauren

At Ralph Lauren, American luxury unfolds in layered worlds. Purple Label sets a composed tone with silk-blend tailoring and band-collar shirting, softened by utility pieces that feel quietly lived-in. The mood then shifts into cinematic nostalgia—Italian lakeside elegance meets racing-era glamour, filtered through Art Deco precision. Polo Ralph Lauren brings the collection into a younger register, dismantling prep staples and rebuilding them through patchwork, varsity codes and a more kinetic, modern attitude.

Dior

Jonathan Anderson’s latest collection for Dior is a study in letting things fall out of place. Inside the historic Musée Nissim de Camondo, formality is treated less as tradition and more as raw material. A tuxedo sits beside distressed denim, tailored silhouettes are interrupted by flashes of colour and unexpected proportions, and houndstooth transforms into a graphic illusion. The Bar jacket is reimagined with dramatic fringed details, while satin boots carry embroidered ladybirds. Anderson’s vision lies in the clash: taking what already exists and making it feel unfamiliar again.

Celine

Michael Rider’s first dedicated menswear show at Celine feels less like a departure and more like an expansion of the world he has been building. Moving beyond the co-ed format, the designer takes classic wardrobe ideas and nudges them into more playful territory: a cape here, an exaggerated silhouette there, a corset detail cutting through the softness of knitwear. The Reebok sneaker collaboration fits naturally into the collection, adding an extra dose of everyday cool.

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton does not just bring the ocean to the runway; it lets the tide take over. A monumental wave-like set frames a collection that looks to surf culture as a new language for luxury. The designers take the surfer’s wardrobe beyond the beach, weaving wetsuit-inspired elements into a dialogue with tailored fabrics, while turning outerwear into a canvas for intricate sea-inspired details. The collection also pays homage to skateboarding’s influence through acid tones and chequered motifs, capturing the energy of youth culture while staying rooted in the Maison’s craftsmanship.