Stuart Vevers’ journey has truly been remarkable. After a memorable celebration of his tenth-year anniversary with close friends and special guests in the New York Public Library for SS24—an event I had the pleasure of attending last September—the momentum continues as he reimagines youth culture and self-expression, inviting attendees to embrace the beauty of the present at Coach’s Fall 2024 runway show, held at The James B. Duke House, Upper East Manhattan.
The new collection is a study in contrasts, reflecting present trends and the evolving tastes of today’s youth. The show notes reveal Vevers’ inspiration: “This tension between something romantic and picturesque and something very real and spontaneous is unique to New York, I think. And it captures the mood of the collection.”
The runway opens with a statement look—a voluminous pink taffeta skirt adorned with an oversized bow, a testament to the enduring appeal of the girlhood trend—ushering in a sense of playful femininity juxtaposed against the ruggedness of black leather boots. To my delight, bows emerge as a recurring motif throughout the show, adding a touch of whimsy to sleek silhouettes, including evening gowns and strapless tops.
Vevers’ exploration of American classicism takes the form of oversized tailoring, commanding attention. As expected for its Fall collection, time-honoured staples such as trench coats and shearling jackets undergo a modern reinterpretation. A standout piece—a black leather coat draped over a hoodie—epitomises the effortless cool synonymous with New Yorkers. More long leather coats in subdued colours like pastel pink and olive, along with buttery tan leather iterations, add a pop of personality to the lineup. Meanwhile, oversized tuxedo jackets paired with collegiate-inspired hoodies offer a fresh take on traditional tailoring.
Other looks worth mentioning are the leather jacket with fringe sleeves, offering a clever twist to make an otherwise conventional piece more interesting, and the cosy pairing of oversized knit sweaters with shorts.
Sustainability remains at the forefront of Vevers’ vision, with Coach employing regenerative materials for everyday fashion; love-worn denim, lived-in leather, upcycled taffeta cocktail dresses, and post-consumer crystal and resin accessories imbue the collection with a sense of ruggedness and earned imperfection.
Accessories take centre stage with charming details that capture the essence of New York City. From charms of iconic landmarks like the Empire State Building and the Statue of Liberty to an ‘I Love NY’ mug and personalised postcards, each piece pays homage to the city’s rich heritage. The debut of the New York collection introduces timeless classics like the Brooklyn bag and the Empire Carryall, reimagined in Coach’s iconic leathers.
Reflecting on the collection, Vevers shares his inspiration in a post-event press statement: “I was inspired by the city as a setting for love stories old and new, the tension between the romantic and picturesque and the real and spontaneous that is unique here. Embracing and celebrating love-worn textures and repurposed materials is critical to this vision. For us, it’s about finding joy and purpose in being present, and championing the way the next generation is redefining heritage in their own way.”
Get a glimpse of the show guests here:
Watch the full show here:
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