NYFW AW24: What you missed at Tommy Hilfiger, Tory Burch, Michael Kors, and more
Empire state of mind
Fashion never sleeps, and hot on the heels of Men’s Fashion Week, New York City comes alive (even more than it already is) with its Autumn/Winter 2024 edition, set against a backdrop of heavy snowfall. But did the highly cold weather dampen the glitz and glamour? Not in the slightest!
Among the highlights was the triumphant return of Tommy Hilfiger to the runway after a year-long hiatus, throwing a spectacular show staged in one of the city’s most iconic landmarks. Coach, on the other hand, orchestrated a show infused with themes of romance and contrast, while Michael Kors drew all eyes to the trendy neighbourhood of Chelsea with a collection evocative of the 1930s. What else went down? Here’s a guide to all the buzz from the first leg of Fashion Week.
Tommy Hilfiger
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Creative Director: Tommy Hilfiger
Venue: Grand Central Oyster Bar, Grand Central Station
Highlights of the collection: Consider this a sort of homecoming, if you will. Hilfiger’s show marked the start of the week-long fashion affair, and it was one that was highly anticipated after its absence last year. Showcasing both men’s and women’s looks, the collections exuded a distinct gender-neutral energy. Highlighting American preppy aesthetics with finesse—a hallmark of the brand—the collection spotlighted oversized sweaters in the quintessential red, white, and blue palette, complemented by baseball caps, collegiate jackets adorned with ironed-on patches, striped scarves, refined blazers, pleated skirts, and extra-large white shirts with elongated cuffs. These timeless pieces are the perfect example of versatility, promising to remain wardrobe staples for seasons to come.
Key pieces from the line: An oversized ribbed knit sweater in classic black and white, accentuated by a coordinating knit scarf juxtaposed with striking red pants, offers a fresh take on winter attire sans the traditional long coat. A brown and white tweed blazer paired with a tan pleated skirt accessorised with sheer knee-high socks channels a playful reinterpretation of the schoolgirl aesthetic. Additionally, the accessory department shone a spotlight on extra-long knit scarves in various iterations, adding a touch of flair to any ensemble.
Tory Burch
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Creative Director: Tory Burch
Venue: New York Public Library
Highlights of the collection: Tory Burch, an iconic figure in New York fashion, consistently embodies everyday elegance in her designs, aiming to create clothing that women adore wearing—empowering and impeccably tailored. What’s intriguing this season is her source of inspiration for dresses and skirts, drawn from what might seem like an ordinary object—a lampshade—offering a fresh perspective on soft volume. Structured skirts and sharply tailored blazers contrast with ultra-feminine dresses. Familiar wardrobe staples are reimagined with materials alternating between polished and distressed: glossy faux croc and calf hair juxtaposed with paper leather, frayed wool, and unravelling ruffles. Among the attendees at Burch’s fashion show were her regular front-row celebrities such as Uma Thurman, Kathryn Newton, Alexa Chung, and Barbara Sprouse.
Key pieces from the line: Sensuality takes on a new meaning with transparent skirts adorned with delicately hand-painted sequins. Sleek, body-hugging hoodies are paired with colourful leather midi skirts. Making a reappearance from last September’s showcase is the elegant Fleming minaudière, now presented in a fresh iteration crafted from 3D-printed faux acetate, designed to be worn gracefully on the hip or carried within leather cages secured by buckles. Burch’s signature Lee Radziwill collection sees a new addition with spacious shopper totes and messenger bags, available in an array of colours and finishes, ranging from vibrant cyan leather to distressed patent and subtle tonal jacquard patterns.
Michael Kors
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Creative Director: Michael Kors
Venue: The former location of Barneys in Chelsea
Highlights of the collection: Michael Kors boasts a legion of devoted fans and with good reason. As a perennial presence at New York Fashion Week, the designer consistently produces garments that withstand the test of time. “When we talk about what’s timeless and what endures—it’s quality, it’s simplicity, it’s sophistication, it’s clothes that make you feel confident and powerful,” declares the fashion luminary. This season, he draws inspiration from the elegance of the 1930s, where sharp, sculptural tailoring takes the spotlight, and merges it seamlessly with the minimalist aesthetic of the 1990s. The outcome? Striking outerwear pieces that exude sophistication. Delicate lace and bias-cut shapes in satin turn up the sensuality, and rich and inviting shades of cappuccino, chocolate and blush, create a luxurious palette. Renowned models Amber Valetta, Alek Wek, Paloma Elesser, Ugbad Abdi, and Irina Shayk graced the mirrored runway, accompanied by the tunes of Alicia Keys and Bobby Short, further enhancing the quintessential New York vibe.
Key pieces from the line: Dramatic fur coats in white and blush, glittering body-hugging gowns, elegant floor-length dresses, a leopard print coat, and cinched tailored blazers evoke glamour, highlighting the power of dressing up. Additionally, a new top handle bag—the Gwyneth—a sleek and elongated design in polished silver effortlessly steals the spotlight in the accessory department.
Carolina Herrera
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Creative Director: Wes Gordon
Venue: Wall Street, Financial District
Highlights of the collection: For his sixth appearance at NYFW, Wes Gordon drew inspiration from the powerful, strong, and resilient women in his life. This is reflected in his striking collection, which prominently features architectural elements. While the collection occasionally veers into elaborate and dramatic territory, the silhouettes and tailoring remain clean and precise, showcasing impeccable craftsmanship. In terms of colour, Gordon explores the colour-blocking combination of black and red, pink and red, and black and white to accentuate the body in intriguing ways. Ruffles, voluminous sleeves, and florals emerge as defining elements throughout the collection.
Key pieces from the line: A showstopping voluminous red dress, a plunging V-neck top adorned with tiers of ruffles, and a strapless gown featuring a tiered ruffle back warrant a second look. Among the standout outerwear pieces are a long checkered trench coat and an A-line dress coat embellished with feminine prints of pink peonies. Additionally, tiered chiffon evening gowns and sparkling garments add further depth and glamour to his exquisite collection.
Thom Browne
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Creative Director: Thom Browne
Highlights of the collection: As the final show of NYFW AW24, Browne’s presentation stood in stark contrast to the glamour and sophistication of the preceding shows, injecting a massive burst of dark creativity into the fashion scene and solidifying his reputation as an ultimate showman. Within a set designed to look like a snow garden, a human-like animated giant tree dressed in a Thom Browne puffer jacket served as the centrepiece. The show—inspired by Edgar Allan Poe’s poem The Raven—began with model Anna Cleveland walking out as the ‘raven’, donning a puffer tailcoat and a deconstructed tuxedo dress. Children, clad in school uniforms and holding a raven, follow suit, emerging from the centre tree and calling out to her. In true Thom Browne fashion, all the runway looks are predominantly in black, white, and grey, with almost every garment meticulously deconstructed and reconstructed in tweed in a manner that’s both theatrical and inspiring.
Key pieces from the line: Balloon-like tweed dresses demand a second glance, while Browne’s signature Hector bag makes a striking appearance in a high-shine iteration. The print of a raven silhouette permeates throughout the collection, from jackets to tights, infusing a sense of mystique. The pièce de résistance is a showstopping gold cape, theatrically unveiled to reveal a gold knitted cardigan paired with a voluminous gilded skirt adorned with ravens.
For more New York Fashion Week highlights, click here.
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