Men’s Fashion Week AW24: The best of Loewe, Dior and more
Redefining masculinity
As we prepare for another season of unparalleled style, the spotlight illuminates the runway with the return of Men’s Fashion Week. From the bustling streets of Milan to the chic avenues of Paris, these fashion capitals bear witness to some of the industry’s defining moments. Highlights include Sabato De Sarno’s inaugural foray into Gucci’s menswear, Pharrell Williams paying homage to the Native American culture and Valentino’s vibrant celebration of the sky-blue palette. Read on to find seven of our favourite collections from the two-week-long affair.
Gucci
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Creative director: Sabato De Sarno
Venue: Fonderia Carlo Macchi
Highlights of the collection: Gucci commenced Fashion Week with a flourish as De Sarno introduced a minimalist aesthetic reminiscent of the brand’s Gucci Ancora show last September. On the runway, echoes of the previous collection surfaced in pieces like the grey knee-length topcoat and polo sweater. The enduring popularity of the colour Cherry red was evident, showcased through oversized Jackie and leather jackets. The versatility shines through in the use of a broad spectrum of shades and fabrics, ranging from glossy tan leather to Egyptian blue cotton.
Key pieces from the line: Stepping away from the conventional, matching suits adorned with the iconic Gucci monogram are coupled with elongated neckties. Bedazzled tank tops and fringed cardigans emerge within the assortment, injecting a touch of glamour into the collection. Likewise, the accessories are stunning, ranging from classic loafers and sleek leather gloves to vibrant Jackie and leather duffle bags embellished with the Gucci logo.
Fendi
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Creative director: Silvia Venturini Fendi
Venue: Via Solari
Highlights of the collection: Fendi curated a wardrobe tailored for the outdoors, while seamlessly blending with the dynamic flair of city life. Models walked down the runway in garments infused with European touches, characterised by the gentle texture of Casentino blanket wool, the sleek polish of all-weather fabrics, and the smooth of loden. Added to this, the spirit of the Scottish kilt is woven into the collection, with long pleated shorts paired with leather Wellingtons, as well as flat-front checked skorts and classic trousers refined with meticulous pleating.
Key pieces from the line: In shades of denim blue, grass green and cloud grey, outerwear makes a statement with its ample silhouettes, featuring raglan shoulders and flat leather tab buttons. Colour-blocked knitwear, in particular, brings a playful edge through its gleaming heat-pressed cable knits, ribbed wrap cardigans and triple-layered hems or cuffs on polo sweaters and tanks. Another integral element of the collection is the accessories of various sizes, notably the enhanced Siesta bag, two-tone wash bags, chic Melon hobo and backpack styles decorated with FF hardware.
Prada
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Creative director: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Venue: Deposito of the Fondazione Prada
Highlights of the collection: Set against the backdrop of an office setting mixed with a natural landscape, the dynamic fashion duo revealed a collection that reimagines conventional workwear. Embracing a nature-inspired colour palette, suits are enhanced with additional neckties, while classic footwears are swapped with vibrant sandals. The textured swim hats add an unexpected twist to the business attire.
Key pieces from the line: Aside from the impeccable tailoring, the deft use of colour blocking is impressive. This is evident in one of the looks, where the blue shirt harmoniously complements the red cardigan and orange peaked cap. Wearing two belts at once is also a terrific idea, in addition to the abundance of bulky belts that wrap around the waists. Not to be overlooked are the leather bags and polished dress shoes that are well-suited for office use.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Pharrell Williams
Venue: Jardin d’Acclimatation
Highlights of the collection: Williams’ third collection for the Maison sheds light on the origins of the American Western wardrobe. The Louis Vuitton dandy takes on a country-inspired aesthetic, with suits and shirts adorned in chain-stitched motifs of cacti, bucrania and bolos from Western imagery. Blanket coats and gilets display cowboy monograms, while pyjamas are crafted from cowboy lace. The partnership with Timberland introduces several work boots, including the industrial boot, available in wheat-coloured and black nubuck leather.
Key pieces from the line: Spotted on the runway are denim pieces decorated with floral embroideries made of pearls and sequins, alongside leather jackets and trousers that emulate the embossed detailing found on saddles. There’s a fusion of plaid and Damier in a Buffalo Check design, manifested in brushed flannel, tweed and sequins on coats, jackets and shirts. The Speedy arrives in fresh hues, and the Steamer makes a comeback in three sizes. In the footwear department, the latest addition includes the LV Texan, an authentic cowboy boot, as well as a technical rubber boot showcasing the Damoflage pattern and a chequered sole.
Dior
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Creative director: Kim Jones
Venue: École Militaire
Highlights of the collection: Jones unveiled a collection that honours the legacy of ballet icon Rudolf Nureyev in the presence of notable guests such as Lewis Hamilton, Jay Chou and the K-pop group TXT. The grace of the theatrical dance has been reshaped through a masculine lens, with an emphasis on pleats and zippers adorning knee-length coats, co-ord sets and leather jackets. The iconic bar jackets of Monsieur Dior have also been transformed, now bearing an asymmetrical design with a more pronounced structure.
Key pieces from the line: Among all the elements, the ballet flats in an array of hues immediately capture attention. The selection of bags is equally striking, featuring duffle and mini bags made from cannage lambskin. When it comes to clothing, the elaborately designed capes, bedazzled tank tops, and leather tank tops offer a visual delight, particularly when paired with trousers of different textiles.
Loewe
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: La Garde Républicaine
Highlights of the collection: For AW24, Anderson delves into the intersection of masculinity and social media. Amid the backdrop decorated with Richard Hawkins’ artworks, the garments mirror the lively palette, encompassing scaled leather coats to knit jumpsuits. The concept behind this collection is to develop a cohesive look through the use of a wide range of clothing pieces. You’ll encounter various pairings, spanning from shoes to socks, socks to trousers, trousers to jacket or coat, or belts to waist.
Key pieces from the line: The orange and green patterned leather coats are definitely a must-have. Similarly, any pieces featuring Hawkins’ artworks, such as the floor-length cardigan, sweatpants and the Squeeze bag are appealing to the eye. Meanwhile, other embellishments like leather marquetry, glass studs and fringes enhance the Puzzle Fold tote. Together with the casual boots, sneakers have become a recurring element on the runway, lending the outfits a laid-back vibe.
Valentino
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Creative director: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Venue: Monnaie de Paris
Highlights of the collection: Titled ‘Le Ciel 20.24’, the latest collection represents an ongoing exploration of masculine style by Piccioli. Vivid colours are utilised to convey ideas, and the serene blue of the sky proves to be the perfect hue for this purpose. The calming tone is elegantly embodied in various forms like an overcoat, polo shirt and turtleneck. The tailoring is tastefully softened to encapsulate a sophisticated and gentlemanly style.
Key pieces from the line: Continuing the trend from the previous season, Valentino incorporates the Altorilievo, or High Relief technique, into the clothes to create gaps and artistically frame the body. This can be observed on the arms of the grey overcoat and knitted cardigan. Adding to the allure, the series includes a solid tote bag in an array of shades, while the VLogo Moon bag is presented in an expanded form.
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