Search

The best of MFW AW19 day 1: Gucci and Jil Sander

The best of MFW AW19 day 1: Gucci and Jil Sander

Polar opposites

Text: Stephanie Boey


Image: Gucci
Image: IMaxtree

Day 1 of Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019 showed range from complete ends of the spectrum

Gucci


Who: Gucci Gang Jared Leto, Lucy Boynton and Saoirse Ronan arrived dressed up in creative director Alessandro Michele's designs. OG influencers Bryanboy and Susie Bubble were spotted, too.

Where: The Gucci hub was converted into a theatric runway, with all show guests on one side. On the other, a floor-to-ceiling panel of pulsating LED lights set the backdrop for the Gucci Autumn/Winter 2019 runway. The light show was accompanied by a singing choir, pounding drums and an audio clip of angry barking dogs snarling in the background, which set a dark and ominous tone to the affair.

The low-down: According to the show notes, Michele explored the concept of personas as the running theme. The personas and 'faces' we put on and project to the world were illustrated through the masks that were worn by the models. As for the neck downwards, the clothes and the styling of the pieces told a story of who people really are behind the masks they put on. One look in particular continued Gucci's geek-chic aesthetic with an argyle sweater worn over a turtleneck with a blue pin-striped shirt and tie, accessorised with a large gold cross, signalling convention and routine. But upon closer inspection, were long sharp talons on the left hand, perhaps clueing in on something dark and sinister underneath all those layers. The other favourite was the double-breasted houndstooth jacket paired with the silver foil on powder blue trousers plus chunky sneakers to boot. It's business from the waist above and hype down below.

Buro loves: The juxtaposition of portrayal and reality. The show notes explain that the persona is "the possibility to choose how to exercise our freedom to show ourselves through a powerful filter that constantly selects what we want to share about us and what we want to conceal instead". The best way we can easily decipher this and extrapolate it to real life would be to use Instagram as an example. Beneath all the filters, how much are we putting out there is real?

 


Jil Sander

Who: Husband and wife team Luke and Lucie Meier tell Vogue days before the show that this season focuses on being "sculptural, but delicate at the same time and not just a pile of layers".

The low-down: Minimalistic and pared down; the clothes are beautiful without the need of being ostentatious. The silhouettes are relaxed but controlled, and exhibits a particular architectural soundness to it — an oversized wool jacket hits all the sweet spots on the hemlines (right above the knee and a little above the finger tips for the sleeves), while a long white lightweight tunic breezes through but cuts with sharp detailing. As for the colours used, palette is very composed, compromising of neutrals and muted hues. The single standout being the canary yellow silk co-ord.

Buro loves: The clothes exude a strong presence without doing too much. Perfect for the power woman who prefers flying under the radar, in fashionable stealth mode. Also, satin outerwear? Totally here for it.

 

Related articles

Buro 24/7 Selection

Leave a comment