PFW SS19 Day 8: Stella McCartney, Sacai and Alexander McQueen
Playing to strengths
Who: After buying Kering's 50 percent stake in her brand in March earlier this year, Stella McCartney takes full reins of the house for the first time since its establishment in 2001.
Where: The beautiful Palais Garnier once again sets the stage for her creations.
The Low-down: "For me nothing has really changed, but I think what it has done is given everyone else on the team a boost. It's bold, it's exciting and it's put a spring in everyone's step," said McCartney backstage. Her signature sense of ease continues to shine through in SS19; while the collection might not stand out for being cutting-edge, it will certainly win hearts over with its practicality and commitment to sustainability. Flowing, languid silhouettes dominate the collection in silk slips, trenches and pantsuits, while splashes of punchy hues and florals juxtapose soft tie-dyes and pastels on the runway.
Buro Loves: The breezy pantsuits tailored from a blend of sustainable linen and viscose will be a dream to sport in our weather.
Who: Influencers and street style stars including Irene Kim, Yoyo Cao, Tina Leung, Bryan Boy, Caroline Daur, and Liz Uy all sat front row (well, it was single row seating).
Where: Held at the Palais de Tokyo, creative director Chitose Abe made use of mirrors to maximise light within the show space.
The Low-down: Season after season, Abe shows that she's perfected the art of deconstructed tailoring. No other designer can combine a tuxedo jacket with a cape and make it look so desirable — see opening look in white and note: tailored shorts, nary a pair of bicycle shorts in sight here. This season saw citrus brights, sheer fabrics — a semi khaki trench was combined with a back in sheer peach fabric, and 'deconstructed florals' looking like artfully splattered paint on the finale looks. There were also utility jackets and skirts that featured multiple large pockets, worn with knotted slides, perfect for the girl navigating the urban jungle.
Buro Loves: The opening look, the denim and khaki trench combo, sheer shirtdress with tuxedo bib, army green and navy looks, and the painterly splashes on the closing looks.
Who: This season, Sarah Burton crafts a collection around the journey and rites of passage of a woman — birth, sisterhood, betrothal, marriage, mourning; a woman who is strong, yet not afraid to express her emotions and vulnerability.
Where: Inspired by the rural landscapes of the West Country, specifically the ancient stone circle of Avebury, four huge boulder structures line the middle of the otherwise stark room in Jardin du Luxembourg's Orangerie du Sénat.
The Low-down: From the opening look of a delicate ruffled lace dress with a leather apron belted to its side, to the black leather frock coat with hand-painted florals worn with a spliced rib-knit dress, Burton demonstrated her ability to weave together strength and romanticism effortlessly. The tailored suits came nipped at the waist and accentuated with strong detailing (laces, split sleeves, beading, jacquard) — we can totally imagine the modern bride wearing the all-white Victorian-esque ensemble down the aisle.
Buro Loves: Yellow might not be for everyone, but it's hard not to fall in love with the dreamy silk créponné dress doused in ruffles and wild yellow iris prints, worn with a chain harness for a look of softness with an edge.
The best of PFW SS19 day 8 in 10 pictures:
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