PFW SS16: Jacquemus
"Now the Jacquemus girl is not smiling", said Simon Porte Jacquemus backstage. This translated into a raw, melancholic presentation that was dream-like almost; the evening started with the designer's seven-year-old cousin rolling out a giant red ball of fabric across the concrete floor, decked in an oversized white shirt, and halfway through the show Jacquemus himself appeared, leading a white horse which, according to him, symbolised hope, while his cousin followed behind, this time dragging a giant red necktie with him—giving the viewers an odd, unsettling sensation.
Yet, with the oddness came a sense of brilliance in conceptual design and tailoring. Cut and paste deconstruction was a major theme in the collection—fragments of clothing put together that shouldn't quite make sense but do—alongside pant suits seemingly halved and modeled in pairs, with Jacquemus' familiar circular motif making the occasional appearance.