Paris Fashion Week: Loewe SS17
Bats, not cats
It started with hints on Loewe's Instagram account a day before the show: 'Cloud bag. Bats. Lilies.', said the first post. 'Video. Homely. Voyeuristic.', said the second and 'Domestic. Feminine. Free.', said the third. As it turns out, the Cloud bag, bats and lilies were a literal reference - clouds were airbrushed onto bags, while last season's cats were replaced with leather-wrapped bats and calla lilies in leather that were worn around the wrist and arms, and even wrapped around the calf, peeking out from above the boots.
The starting point for Jonathan Anderson's SS17 collection for Loewe was the idea of a woman on holiday in her art-filled summer home, presumably somewhere near the ocean as the colour palette was largely in cream, seafoam green and shades of blue. There were a lot of raw, organic materials like cotton and linen with unfinished hems and fringing (inspired by domestic elements like tablecloths) but with particular focus on craftsmanship, as seen in the basket weave leather that made up part of a skirt.
Silhouettes were loose and flowy, with rounded balloon sleeves, gathers at the waist, sleeves and hemlines—a generous cut for ease of movement with the option of adding a little structure in the form of those wide, boxy waist belts.
In catering for the growing 'see now, buy now' trend, four full looks are now available for pre-order online—one of which, the navy jacket with extra-long sleeves that almost trail the ground, which if you're holidaying at a villa in the South of France or in the Balearic islands, how else would you make a statement?
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