Poppies adorned the walls at the Salvatore Ferragamo show space in their digital form, a motif that would soon reveal itself as a key print for Spring/Summer 2017. The first look out was a poppy-printed tea dress, nipped in at the waist but with balloon sleeves and a flouncy hemline – a silhouette that was repeated throughout the collection.
This silhouette worked particularly well in the athletic looks, like in the cropped sweater and zip-up jacket looks, both paired with a mermaid-cut knee-length skirt, grounded with bulbous platform shoes that came in multi-strap versions or attached to a stretchy sock-like boot. The platforms were a nod to the brand’s iconic Rainbow wedge that Salvatore Ferragamo created for Judy Garland in 1938; the “collection reconnects with its stylistic heritage and progresses with contemporary experimentation,” offered the show notes.
Tailored workwear pieces also made their way into the collection – a navy blue vest and trouser look with crocodile leather pockets on the vest is a particular favourite, while a sharp leather suit in red with laser cutouts looked light enough to be worn in the summer. The same leather with cutouts was used again in some of the bags but it was the large, pillowy satchels in bold primary colours that stole the show.
Salvatore Ferragamo SS17 marked the debut collection for Fulvio Rigoni (who previously worked with Raf Simons at Dior) as head of women’s ready-to-wear since Massimiliano Giorgetti left in March, and while this collection might not have been the brand’s strongest in recent times, it certainly is promising.
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