Autumn/Winter 2021 highlights: Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, and Salvatore Ferragamo
What you missed
From a highly anticipated ready-to-wear debut to the best trends of the season, we've covered some of the most exciting things to note from Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Month so far. Following our first highlight roundup, the second installment shines the spotlight on storied Italian Maisons including Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, and Salvatore Ferragamo. Ferragamo, in particular, debuted a futuristic fashion film that's a must-watch.
Check them out below:
70 years ago, Achille Maramotti founded Max Mara with sights set on the wives of the local notaries and doctors who went on to get jobs of their own, and “they rose and rose, and Max Mara went with them”, reads the show notes. To celebrate the brand’s milestone, it’s only natural for the brand to revisit the same message, and the AW21 collection is a tribute to the modern-day women—the young queens who are running the world today.
With its signature neutral hues at centre stage, the collection continues to highlight—and elevate—the Brittanic-meets-Italian style that Max Mara is known and well-loved for. The coats were definitely the main focus of the line-up. There’s the signature teddy-bear coat that's introduced in a new khaki hue, quilted jackets made from its trademark camel hair, and bomber jackets that add a streetwise flair to the get-ups. Creative director Ian Griffith also paid homage to Queen Elizabeth II, as a slew of models appeared with headscarves that are reminiscent of the royal's Balmoral looks.
In the mood for pop? For Autumn/Winter 2021, Emporio Armani revived the ‘80s with a collection that’s filled with bold colours and eclectic details. From bright pinks to rich blues, the looks complement the neon backdrop, but to juxtapose the strong accents, silhouettes—whether it’s on loungewear separates or tailored co-ords—were considerably soft and relaxed. Round shoulders, baggy trousers and drop-waist shapes were some of the mainstays throughout.
Towards the end, the eveningwear pieces largely come in black, but details and textures including plush velvet, shimmering sequins, and intricate bead embroidery seal them on a glamorous note.
While Emporio Armani referenced the throwback decade, at Giorgio Armani, the brand looked to the future. Comprising ultra-feminine ensembles, the AW21 collection has a sense of optimism to it. “I’m not abandoning my idea of simplicity, or even of precision, but I think this moment calls for kindness, and perhaps a touch of romance,” said the designer in a statement.
From ocean blue to bright turquoise to pastel purple and pink, the pops of exuberant colours uplift the otherwise muted palette. The Maison’s take on femininity can be seen via the fluid, elongated silhouettes that are amped up with florals, ruffles, and swaths of skin. In this current climate, comfort is still key at the end of the day, and in place of towering heels, models walked down the runway in comfy flat shoes.
You know you’re in for a treat when a fashion house names sci-fi hits including Gattaca, Until the End of the World, and The Matrix as its reference. This season, Salvatore Ferragamo fuses the physical and virtual worlds with a short film that combines a runway show with virtual effects and CGI graphics. Accompanying the video, is a collection that’s made up of wardrobe classics reimagined through a futuristic lens.
Creative director Paul Andrew says in the show notes, “For this ‘Future Positive’ collection I imagined the standard contours of today’s uniforms as fossilised remnants of a long-forgotten past, freed of all associations of class, colour or creed.” Featuring details drawn from militaria, moto, athletics, scuba, and more, the looks were equal parts futuristic and sporty, and key accessories—including space-biker boots, reinterpreted F-heels, and a deconstructed Studio bag—make the perfect finishing touch.
For more Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Month stories, click here.