Autumn/Winter 2021 highlights: Burberry, Coach, Prada, and Moschino
Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Month is now in full swing. Our first highlights of the season feature Burberry, Coach, Prada, and Moschino, that each presented their latest collection via different formats. Burberry and Prada’s showcases were in the form of a pre-recorded audience-less runway show; Coach launched Coach Forever Season Two via Coach TV; and Moschino took on a fashion film.
Catch up on what you missed by watching their presentations below:
Instead of a women’s collection, for AW21, chief creative officer Riccardo Tisci honed in on men’s instead, presenting his first menswear-focused line at Burberry. In this current climate, naturally, the designer set his sights on the great outdoors, sending down looks that are an ode to the relationship between humanity and nature. “I wanted to celebrate the freedom of expression. Enclosed indoors, I dreamt of the outdoors and its beauty, fuelled by the thought of the creativity that comes when we are together,” Tisci says in the show notes.
While the film was shot indoors (at the brand’s flagship on Regent Street, London), the collection had us dream of of nature. From its signature trench to varsity jackets to panelled coats, outerwear was in abundance, and layering was key. Pleats and fringes that sway with each move reflect motion and activity.
Coach is interrupting our regular programming in different ways this season. 1) The brand opted to show out of the New York Fashion Week schedule, and 2) it’s presenting its latest collection via a TV show format. Dubbed Coach Forever Season Two, the video started with House ambassador Michael B. Jordan scrolling through the channels, and the programmes include a ‘Friends’-inspired sit-com starring K-pop couple HyunA and Dawn, an MTV-inspired music video featuring Jessica Lopez, and a home-shopping network skit starring Rickey Thompson. We honestly can’t pick a favourite.
Clothing-wise, creative director Stuart Vevers is all about fusing the past, present, and future together. Inspired by the indoor and outdoor worlds, the comfortable and cosy pieces—ranging from knits to shearling outerwear—are versatile and made for layering. The leather jackets, in particular, were created in partnership with American outerwear brand Schott NYC.
For Prada’s Autumn/Winter 2021 show, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons focused on opening possibilities by fusing polar opposites: “simplicity and complexity, elegance and practicality, limitation and release, transmuted,” as show notes state. The result? A plethora of reimagined classics that are equal parts luxurious and effortless.
Tailored suiting are worn with bright geometric-print turtleneck tops and tights; bright coats are paired with skin-tight leather gloves and boots, and oversized sequinned coats are layered over flared trousers that tune up the ease. It doesn’t stop at that. Zoom in on the looks and you’ll notice the array of fur shawl lined with sequins, and spliced open plain black dresses and jumpsuits, revealing different knit patterns.
The duo also held a virtual discussion post-show featuring fellow designer Marc Jacobs, musician Richie Hawtin, film director Lee Daniels, architect Rem Koolhaas, and actress Hunter Schafer, moderated by Youtube’s head of fashion and beauty partnerships Derek Blasberg.
Following its elaborate puppet show during SS21, Moschino went back to real-live models this season, presenting its AW21 collection via a fashion film format. Its concept? “A show within a show within a show within a show”. Titled ‘Jungle Red’, the short film is inspired by the 1939 movie The Women, and it brings the old Hollywood glamour into the 21st century.
Presented in five segments, the show features 36 models who were all dressed in eye-catching looks. Hailey Bieber opened the show in a pinstriped skirt-suit complete with a tiny top hat; '90s supermodel Shalom Harlow was a sequinned cheetah; Miranda Kerr was dressed in a milk-maid-inspired number complete with a barnyard bag; and Dita Von Teese closed the show as the Queen of Hearts. Elsewhere, there were giraffes and a potato sack. It was a campy affair in the most fun way possible.
For more Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Month stories, click here.