Fashion

Runway Report: Highlights of Milan Fashion Week SS23

Italian glamour

23.09.2022

By Sarah Hani Jamil

Runway Report: Highlights of Milan Fashion Week SS23

All eyes are on Milan as Fashion Week SS23 will take place in the style capital from 21-26 September, and there’s a lot for you fashion enthusiasts to look forward to. With 68 physical runway shows, a whopping 104 presentations, and more, scheduled throughout the whole period, expect plenty of memorable fashion moments and celebrity style-spotting on the streets of Milan.

 

 

From designer collaborations to new Creative Director debuts—Paul Andrew’s successor, Maximilian Davis, at Salvatore Ferragamo is one we’re eagerly anticipating—and the showcase of Italy’s biggest industry players on the runway, namely Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Versace and Max Mara, Milan Fashion Week will be dramatic, bold, sophisticated and fabulous all at once. Other highlights to look forward to include Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy’s second collection, Lily Aldrige’s presentation with Weekend Max Mara and the intriguing Diesel runway show that will be open to the public—we can’t wait!

 

 

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Fendi

When: Wednesday, 21 September 2022, 8pm Malaysia Time

After the recent celebration of Fendi’s 25 years with the baguette at a star-studded show in New York, the Italian label returns to Milan to showcase its womenswear collection for SS23 at its regular show space in Via Solari, under the leadership of Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi, alongside Delfina Delettrez, the Artistic Director of Jewellery. Watch the show live at Fendi.com.

 

 

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Post-show highlights:

Fashion’s obsession with Y2K powers on and this is proved even further by Kim Jones’ latest collection that references 2000s eclecticism while balancing it with minimalism. Vibrant pops of colour such as coral, lime green and blue appear on accessories, worn against neutral-coloured clothing. Meanwhile, luxurious textures like cashmere, fur, shearling and leather are cleverly layered with technical fabrics. For inspiration, Jones turned to the late Karl Lagerfeld’s work, from1996 to 2022. “It’s about continuity. I am interested in looking at things that Karl has done and seeing how we can develop them visually and technically,” he says. The result: the revival of a floral print from the Fendi archives and the return of the House logo, introduced in 2000, reimagined for today.

Prada

When: Thursday, 22 September, 10pm Malaysia Time.

This season, Co-Creative Directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons partner with film director Nicolas Winding Refn to create an immersive installation titled ‘Touch of Crude’ for the runway show, as well as a series of short films that will be displayed throughout Milan.

 

 

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Post-show highlights:

Polarities are explored and highlighted for SS23; day and evening wear are interchangeable, undergarments are fused with outerwear, while bodysuits of poplin shirting offer a minimalist reality. One notable element of the show is the use of paper-based fabric that is utilised for a series of dresses that are cleverly torn on the edges for a raw and impulsive appearance. Scroll through the gallery to check out the collection.

Moschino

When: Thursday, 22 September, 11pm Malaysia time

Jeremy Scott will present the label’s SS23 Donna collection at the Palazzo del Ghiaccio. The Creative Director is known for his love of theatrics so you’re guaranteed a good show. While last season’s set was inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s A Space Odyssey, we anticipate this year’s runway to be just as fantastical. We’ll be sharing a first look at the collection so check back for updates.

 

Post-show highlights:

A buzz of anticipation filled the air as guests trickled into the spacious, dimmed show space right before showtime. A star-studded front row comprising Alessandra Ambrosio, J Balvin, Heidi Klum and Michele Morone added to the excitement, which is exactly the environment Jeremy Scott wanted to create for the show—one of glamour, joy and optimism. In response to the gloom and issues of today, the Creative Director highlights a collection of bright colours, high-impact graphics, flirty skirt suits, and funky evening dresses and gowns. For a more playful touch, pool toys are worn as accessories across all sorts of looks. A black jacket and trouser suit boast inflatable pockets, a pink skirt set comes with floaties at the cuffs and on a one-shouldered ruffled dress, a pool ring is seen on the waist. See the entire vibrant collection for yourself here.

 

 

Boss

When: Friday, 23 September, 3am Malaysia Time

Scheduled to happen at the Velodromo Vigorelli, a stadium that holds up to 9,000 people, expect the SS23 collection to highlight sporty tailoring and a much youthful approach to Italian suiting that the brand is so well-known for, following its major brand refresh earlier this year. Stay tuned for updates!

 

 

Post-show highlights:

While Spring/Summer 2023 was the main focus of this fashion week, Boss opted to present its Fall/Winter 2022 collection instead in a dramatic set-up of steel caged globes, illuminated by light beams and lasers. Taking inspiration from the label’s archives and reinventing pieces for a whole new generation of Boss consumers, the collection saw a variety of silhouettes that imbued the brand’s expert tailoring and play on fabrics and proportions. The original power suit is redefined in both slouchy and sculptural interpretations. Elsewhere, neutral shades of brown, cream and charcoal are added to the label’s palette of black, white and camel tones.

Max Mara

Upon entry to the show space, shades of Mediterranean blue filled the hall at the Piazza Afari, emulating the bright and sun-soaked ambience of the French Riviera. Inspired by timeless muses of the 1920s, namely Renée Perle and Eileen Gray—icons of fashion and architecture of that decade—Max Mara conceptualises a stunning and sophisticated wardrobe that embodies these personalities. Ian Griffith’s signature elegant tailoring is seen throughout, specifically in high-waist billowing trousers, double-breasted summer trench coats, racerback evening dresses and linen blazers. Three swimwear looks in pastel shades—cornflower blue, daffodil yellow and pistachio green—complete with swim caps stole the show. Completing the collection is a series of looks that feature black hand-painted floral prints against a nude colour base.

We’ll be updating this page live from Italy so hit the bookmark button right now and come back for updates throughout the week!

 

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