Runway Recap: Onitsuka Tiger’s AW24 show channels urban winter charm in celebration of 75 years

Runway Recap: Onitsuka Tiger’s AW24 show channels urban winter charm in celebration of 75 years

For the cool kids


By Sarah Hani Jamil

As the first brand to kick off Milan Fashion Week for AW24, there was a palpable excitement in the air as guests lined up to enter the show space on the morning of February 20th. This excitement was heightened even more, notably since it marked the celebration of Onitsuka Tiger’s 75th anniversary. 

The brand’s festivities had kicked off earlier in the week with a fashion pop-up at the prestigious Italian department store La Rinascente—just a stone’s throw away from the Duomo di Milano—on the fourth floor. This showcased the recently launched Astro Boy collection, accompanied by a bar takeover on the seventh floor. The bar also served as the venue for the afterparty later that night.

Right before the show started, the anticipation continued to mount with the arrival of star power, including brand ambassador Conan Gray, Mamamoo’s Hwasa, Indonesian actress Luna Maya, Malaysian content creator Hakken, Gulf Kanawut from Thailand, Glenn Yong from Singapore, Leigh-Anne Pinnock from UK’s Little Mix, The Phillippines’ Heart Evangelista, and more, all dressed either in shades of Onitsuka Tiger yellow, black or pieces from the Spring/Summer 2024 collection.

Guests settled into the grand show venue located at Via San Paolo 10, within The Società del Giardino—one of the ten oldest gentlemen’s clubs globally, which has continuously operated since its inception in 1783. The show space radiated an old-world charm reminiscent of an elegant ballroom, adorned with magnificent crystal chandeliers. Before the runway started, a whimsical performance by the Japanese dance team Avant Gardey took the audience by surprise. Led by the renowned producer and choreographer Akane, this 20-member, all-female ensemble mesmerised with their synchronised moves in matching Mexico 66 trainers and Onitsuka Tiger yellow uniforms, which paid homage to Uma Thurman’s iconic tracksuit from the 2003 movie Kill Bill. Adding to the evening’s entertainment, the acclaimed pianist Yuja Wang graced the floor, performing on a custom yellow-wrapped piano by Steinway & Sons.

With the theme ‘Urban Winter’, the runway showcased a distinct edge, marking a departure from the athleisure looks of previous seasons. The brand’s 75th anniversary may have served as a catalyst to elevate its versatility in fashion. After all, debuting on the first slot of the first day of Milan Fashion Week is an audacious move, undoubtedly befitting the brand’s bold identity.

In total, 49 looks were presented in homage to Onitsuka’s founding year—1949. At first glance, the colour palette comprised greys, blacks, beige, camel, and a muted yellow, with bursts of sequins adorning several looks, offering consistency and an intriguing variation. Upon closer inspection, numerous fascinating details adorned the silhouettes. For men, wide pants were available in extra-long and ankle-cut chino styles alongside five-pocket designs. Other exciting elements include detachable zip-neck collars (inspired by tracktops) worn under blazers and coats, and a wet-coating finish on jackets.

Meanwhile, women’s bottoms offer a choice between loose and oversized styles or extra stretchy and form-fitting designs. Dresses showcase panel or tier detailing, embellished with both shimmering and matte paillettes. Flowing micro skirts are complemented by long vests or double-breasted jackets.

In footwear, new creepers are styled with wool socks, while the introduction of chunky high heels prioritises comfort and slip resistance. Additionally, the collection introduces innovative hybrid shoes that blend rubber soles with trekking boot elements. Finally, a double bag crafted from synthetic leather and featuring an urban shoulder strap adds a versatile accessory to the lineup.


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