MFW AW24: Highlights from Fendi, Max Mara, Tod’s, and more
Fashion

MFW AW24: Highlights from Fendi, Max Mara, Tod’s, and more

Revolutionary winter styles

28.02.2024

By Sarah Hani Jamil

It’s been a whirlwind of a week as Milan Fashion Week AW24 unfolded from the 21st to the 25th of February amidst the cold backdrop of a rainy winter—a less-than-ideal setting for darting from one place to another across town to catch shows. However, undeterred by the weather, we were on the ground, capturing some of the most exciting moments, celebrity sightings, and, of course, the stunning winter collections that defy the notion of dreary, uniform coats.

From Gucci’s dazzling array of sparkly coats to Roberto Cavalli’s eye-catching marble-print puffers, the coming season promises an exciting wardrobe transformation for winter. Whether it’s bold patterns or luxurious textures, there’s a renewed sense of excitement in the air. Scroll down as we recap the highlights of Milan Fashion Week AW24.

 

Fendi

 

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Creative Director: Kim Jones

Collection highlights: Transporting us to a world of country elegance, the collection evokes the wardrobe of a vacation in the British countryside. Showcasing a sophisticated mix of fabrics, we witnessed the layering of wool coats elegantly cinched with belts, luxurious long coats featuring snug fleece lining, and the striking pairing of knee-high boots with sleek knitwear and high-shine jackets. Among the notable attendees spotted prior to the show were model Amber Valletta, Jessica Biel, Song Yuqi of (G)I-dle, and An Yujin of the Korean girl group Ive.

Key pieces: Noteworthy looks include knit scarves artfully draped over the shoulders, knit dresses layered over turtlenecks, an army green leather shift dress paired with knee-high boots, and ethereal transparent tulle tops and dresses with charming polka-dot details. Spotlighting functionality, the Peekaboo, Baguette, and Origami bags stand out in rich leather, boasting a palette of deep, natural hues devoid of unnecessary frills or embellishments.

 

Roberto Cavalli

 

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Creative Director: Fausto Puglisi

Collection highlights: The show’s location, the Piazza Degli Affari, holds significant prestige in one of Milan’s most renowned squares—a fitting choice for a brand deeply rooted in Italian heritage. Just a few minutes walk from the iconic Duomo, it provided a stunning backdrop for Milan’s stylish elite. Roberto Cavalli’s signature designs typically revolve around exotic animal prints, catering to those with an audacious fashion sense. However, this season, Puglisi takes a fresh approach by introducing another equally daring yet less contentious print—Portoro marble—skillfully reimagined across various hues and silhouettes. From classic black-and-white marbling reminiscent of Renaissance architecture to striking yellow gold on black, the collection reinforces the image of the empowered Italian woman through figure-flattering silhouettes that celebrate the feminine form.

Key pieces: Aside from the captivating multicolour marble prints on fluid shirts, slip dresses and pencil dresses, what truly commanded attention was the striking marble trench coat in classic black and white, and the marble puffer jacket in bold yellow and black—both destined to turn heads. As the show progressed, the final ten looks emerged in a palette dominated by black, exuding not sombreness but rather elegance crafted with luxurious materials such as velvet, leather, and even lace. This portrayal of a powerful and confident woman is further accentuated by accessories featuring marble and gold tone elements, including buttons and jewellery. 

 

Max Mara

 

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Creative Director: Ian Griffith

Collection highlights: Max Mara’s commitment to impeccable tailoring remains a defining feature, and this season pays homage to the timeless elegance of French writer Colette of the early 1900s. Drawing inspiration from her love of power dressing, the collection presents a blend of masculine and feminine elements, offering a vast range of timeless classics, including authoritative overcoats, caban coats, and a selection of power jackets for which Max Mara is known. While the initial looks on the runway exude a sense of dark allure with their black hues, they are meticulously detailed with innovative constructions and sumptuous fabrics like cashmere. Whether long or short, almost every silhouette is accentuated by a broad knitted band at the waist, or cinched with a narrow belt, adding an extra layer of refinement to the ensemble.

Key pieces: The collection showcases a deliberate focus on silhouette, notably seen with the Japanese Kimono jackets—some featuring blousing at the back, while others boast voluminous sleeves, adding a touch of drama and elegance. In terms of the colour palette, rich, inky navy tones are juxtaposed with jet black and smoky greys, creating a harmonious collection. Delicate camisoles and slip dresses are paired effortlessly with cosy Teddy coats, striking a balance between sensuality and warmth. Additionally, the collection introduces soft calfskin bags adorned with stylised hinges and clasps, providing a refined finishing touch.

 

Emporio Armani

 

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Creative Director: Giorgio Armani

Collection highlights: The show unfolds in a dark theatre setting, evoking the enigmatic allure of the night sky—an ambience that is both beautiful and inspiring. As the models grace the glass runway, they are adorned in palettes ranging from intense blacks and deep jade greens to soft mauves and sophisticated greys, infusing the cold darkness with the inviting warmth of luxurious fur, velvety matte wools, and gleaming jacquard fabrics. The emphasis on structured shoulders adds a bold and commanding presence to the silhouettes, while playful polka dots make sporadic yet charming appearances throughout the collection. Just before the finale walk, the stage is transformed as snow begins to fall gently from the sky, creating a truly magical moment.

Key pieces: The styling presents an intriguing fusion of elements—trousers paired beneath billowing dresses create a striking juxtaposition, while jumpsuits adorned with glittering crescents add a touch of celestial allure. Fur jackets are introduced to infuse a sense of glamour into the collection, complemented by the addition of berets or garrison caps adorning the models’ heads. The incorporation of metallic elements throughout the collection, such as embroidered stars and moons, contributes to a playful whimsy that permeates the runway. 

 

Tod’s

 

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Creative Director: Matteo Tamburini

Collection highlights: In his debut collection for Tod’s, Tamburini unveils an exciting show staged at the Darsena tram depot, providing a dynamic backdrop suited for the theme ‘In Motion’. The collection embraces the essence of everyday workwear with a modern twist. Layers play a key role, with shirts worn over shirts and cotton vests layered atop shirts. Extra-long sleeves add a contemporary edge, while tailored trousers exude sophistication. Slouchy trench coats and oversized field jackets offer a relaxed yet refined aesthetic. Luxurious materials such as cashmere, wool, and silk are expertly crafted into knitwear pieces.

Key pieces: Long leather trenches stand out as statement pieces, elevating the overall urban chic aesthetic. For instance, the teal trench coat, modelled by Irina Shayk, epitomises the perfect balance between masculine tailoring and feminine allure. Another noteworthy item is the Gommino shoe, embellished with delicate leather fringes that add a sense of fluidity and motion with every step. Additionally, Tod’s heritage is revitalised through the modern reinterpretation of the Di Bag Swing, as seen here on Shayk.

 

MSGM

 

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Creative Director:  Massimo Giorgetti

Collection highlights: Giorgetti’s AW24 collection marks a refreshing departure from some of the highly polished and sophisticated collections showcased throughout the week. While others catered to the refined, elegant modern woman, MSGM offers pieces tailored for the younger generation, particularly Gen Z. Embracing the concept of liberated femininity, it aims to move beyond conventional dressing. Inspired by Truman Capote’s “Swans”, the collection sets out to empower a new generation of women who constantly infuse creativity into their lives. The past is revisited and transformed, with the elegant swan imagery disrupted by zippers and crystals. The colour palette is a harmonious blend of both bold and understated shades, featuring hues like grey, anthracite, cream, and dusty pink, accompanied by bursts of vibrant hues such as red and lime green against a backdrop of deep black.

Key pieces:  Focus lies heavily on volumes and textures in this collection. Think high-shine vinyl suits, the glossy sheen of jersey fabrics, and fitted pieces juxtaposed with oversized garments like faux fur coats and pants. Accessories include buckled pumps and pink studs, adding a touch of flair to each ensemble.

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