The fashion industry may be deeply affected by the current pandemic, but the show must—and will—go on. Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2020 has kick-started a series of digital fashion weeks happening in these few months, and if the three-day virtual event is anything to go by, the designers have fully embraced the ‘new normal’ with an array of digital formats, presenting their awe-inspiring designs (that were mostly completed during the lockdown) via short films, interviews, and mini documentaries.
Below, all the videos you should watch from the first digital Haute Couture Fashion Week—it’s definitely one worth remembering:
Chanel
For Haute Couture AW20, instead of Gabrielle Chanel, creative director Virginie Viard had the late Karl Lagerfeld in mind, unveiling 30 looks that are equal parts opulent and eccentric, pulled together with 18th century nuances.
The film—shot by Michael Jansson—is short yet packs a punch, thanks to all the close-ups of details that one might not be able to see IRL at the Grand Palais, namely the embroidery and embellishment by ateliers including Lesage, Montex, Lemarié, and Goosens. The looks are a punk princess’ dream come true.
Behind the scenes
For those of you who are craving for more, the Maison has also released a three-part mini-documentary to let viewers get a behind-the-scenes look at the preparation of its first digital Haute Couture presentation.
Episode 1
Episode 2
Episode 3
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf is no stranger to meme-worthy looks, and this season, the brand’s Haute Couture looks are made to address the unprecedented times. Titled “Change”, the nine ensembles were divided into three segments—the first, for anxiety and sadness; the second, confusion; and lastly, for love and hope.
The rollercoaster of emotions reflects what we’ve all experienced or are currently experiencing, but regardless of how you’re feeling at the moment, one thing we can agree for sure: These are the perfect outfits for social distancing. Also, singer Mika’s campy narration is another reason to hit the ‘play’ button.
Dior
Welcome to the fantastical world of Dior. Instead of a live runway show (which was scheduled for Cruise 2021), the French Maison presented its Haute Couture AW20 collection via a film format, and it’s undoubtedly one of the most talked about shows this season.
Directed by Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone (of Pinnochio), the 14-minute short film is filled with enchantment and magic, featuring a dreamlike universe with mythical beings and doll-sized clothes. The concept of the ensembles was inspired by Théâtre de la Mode—a travelling theatre of miniature fashion in 1945.
Behind the scenes
The making of the film by director Matteo Garrone:
The inspiration behind the Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2020 collection:
Iris van Herpen
Seeing Iris van Herpen otherworldly designs being sent down the runway has always been one of the highlights of every Paris Haute Couture week. But for the first time ever, instead of a full collection, the brand focused on one single dress—called the Transmotion—and shot it on Dutch actress Carice van Houten.
Stemming from the “notion of growth and regeneration”, the silk, fluid number features black branches that are reminiscent of the roots of a tree, and it’s a continuation of the designer’s aim to “collaborate with nature.”
Giambattista Valli
For Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2020, the designer dedicated the collection to the City of Lights, and it’s all in the colours. According to the show notes, “red like the lipstick marks often found on empty cups on the tables of Parisian cafes, black like the notorious ‘Petite Robe Noire’, pink like the wild roses growing in the city’s gardens and ivories like the mouldings that adorn windows and ceilings.”
With the brand’s DNA in mind, tulle was, of course, the mainstay in the line-up, and the 18 frothy mini-dresses and gowns—modelled by supermodel Joan Smalls—will leave you in absolute awe.
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