At the Dior Couture Spring 2016 outing, in-house designers Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux demonstrated that they were well capable of holding the creative fort left behind by Raf Simons, albeit temporarily. The off-the-shoulder neckline from the couture show spills over to the AW16 collection, oftentimes in one-sided affairs, or paired with sweaters in Fall-perfect manner. While largely in line with the atelier’s signature feminine aesthetic and Simons’ modern romantic notions, hints of experimental cues ensue in flounce hemlines and a number of bold paisley print creations.
Sleek, refined, and sophisticated, the Loewe AW16 collection is undoubtedly one of Jonathan Anderson’s best showings to date. Gone are the plastic pants (thankfully) from SS16, in its place are elegant handkerchief-hem skirts, leather bustiers layered on for a touch of polished eccentricity, fringed tweed suits and flashes of rustic gold. Anderson remained his touch of quirk in the series of cat-shaped minaudière necklaces that complemented a handful of looks down the runway.
Supersized and structural are no strangers in Rei Kawakubo’s design vocab. For Comme des Garçons AW16, the design maestro went punk. In “imagining punks in the 18th century”, the collection featured her signature 3D creations decked in rich florals and jacquard, rounding off with an extravagant dusky pink number—what ruffle dreams are made of.
Haider Ackermann, on the other hand, veered away from his previous punk pastels and into an autumnal palatte with jewel tones this time around. It seems that long, lean silhouettes are a staple for Ackermann. In this case, it is accompanied by military notions alongside instances of crushed velvet, jacquard and tweed. Mannish yet refined tailoring result in a dandy aesthetic, served with a side of eccentricity—partly attributed to the multihued tentacle-like hair on the models.
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