Salvatore Ferragamo
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Who: Paul Andrew debuted his first lineup for the brand as creative director of women’s collections.
What: This collection is also the first coed runway production for Ferragamo.
The Low-down: Together with menswear creative director Guillaume Meilland, Andrew rebooted the house codes with aplomb this AW18 by eschewing stuffy, traditional silhouettes in favour of elevated outerwear options thanks to updated fabrics and a vibrant colour palette. We spotted merlot reds, mustard yellows and a lovely shade of deep, Vatican blue that coloured the runway. Materials were mixed for refined ease (think knits with leather), but Andrew also added copious amounts of leather (the house expertise) to the range, including a rather memorable suit made of ostrich jacket and trousers.
Buro Loves: The clever use of Ferragamo’s iconic Doppio Gancini hardware on a handful of footwear options including men’s loafers and women’s knee-high ostrich boots.
Giorgio Armani:
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Who: The celebrity-strong #FROW include Michelle Hunziker, Bar Refaeli, and Vittorio Grigòlo.
What: A globe-trotting experience from the catwalk was the intended purpose, as Giorgio Armani cited international references from various cultures “as an ode to coexistence as opposed to exclusion.”
The Low-down: The collection had a whopping 96 looks, comprising neutral daywear looks that were a nod to the house’s DNA (think greige nuances and classic silhouettes) alongside eveningwear that guarantee double takes — evidently, as therein lies Mr. Armani’s forte. His expertise showed in various embroidered pieces, from crystal-beaded tops to sequinned jackets, at times merging above-mentioned references by way of intricately-woven prints into some looks. Furry oversized headgear and lace-up leather boots that snaked up to the thighs jazzed up the looks accordingly.
Buro Loves: Two contrasting looks for the modern woman: A crystal-studded double-breasted pantsuit that echoed a retro aesthetic, and a breathtaking midnight blue velvet gown styled with fur arm warmers.
Jil Sander:
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Who: Luke and Lucie Meier, husband-and-wife creative directors who are on their second runway season this AW18
What: A glimpse into the future but with a comforting, humanizing prospect
The Low-down: The designer duo explored the “comforting” aspect of the theme quite literally with jackets that had wraps enveloping the torso, knit sweaters seemingly tugged off-center, duvets cinched on outerwear and even handheld by models. Cushy threads aside, the more imperative look were tailored jackets with rounded shoulders and lengthy sleeves, chic coats that were nipped slightly at the waist for definition, skirts that took on the similar rounded shape on the hips for a futuristic touch, and a smattering of floral prints in lilac, blue, red and earth tones.
Buro Loves: A head-to-toe red knitted look featuring a sweater, skirt and matching leggings beneath — all tailored alsant, bringing the concept of minimalistic-chic to mind.
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