The Autumn/Winter 2024 show marks Sabato De Sarno’s second foray into womenswear with Gucci, and all eyes were eagerly on the creative director to see if he could uphold the consistency and allure of his previous debut success. Invitations arrived in the form of a cherry-red diary—a Gucci signature colour called Ancora Red—with the encouraging words ‘Follow your heart’ emblazoned on the cover. This exclusive notebook comes from the esteemed stationary shop Pettinaroli Milano, established in 1881, epitomising a quintessentially Italian gesture from a brand steeped in heritage. Now, onto the location.
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Set within the industrial event space of Fonderia Carlo Macchi, the warehouse was transformed into a runway befitting the treasured Gucci name. A commanding feature was the expansive wall painted in Ancora Red, adorned with the iconic Gucci logo, serving as the perfect backdrop for celebrity photocalls upon their arrival—of which there were many. Despite the dreary, rainy weather, the red carpet saw a star-studded turnout, with British actress Daisy Edgar Jones among the first arrivals, followed by Alexa Chung, Julia Garner, Salma Hayek, Kirsten Dunst, Solange Knowles, and others.
Mark Ronson made a striking appearance in a powder blue suit, accompanied by his wife Grace Gummer. Ronson’s presence was expected, given his consistent collaboration with the brand; having curated the soundtracks for the last two runway shows, he once again showcased his musical talent by directing and mixing three tracks for this event: Coronacid by Did Virgo and Morgan K, I’m Not in Love by Kelsey Lu, and Two Men in Love by The Irrepressibles. Among the attendees, Gucci brand ambassador Hanni of NewJeans garnered significant attention and excitement as she gracefully made her entrance, wearing a stylish two-piece corset and skirt ensemble. Now, let’s get into the collection.
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In the show notes, De Sarno asserts that for this collection, he “views things from a perspective different from what is presumed most appropriate, not following the rules.” As the models elegantly walked down the runway, it became evident that outerwear took centre stage in the showcase. Long wool coats and shorter jackets received a dazzling transformation with an array of sequins in varying sizes, creating a captivating play of light as the models moved with grace. Similarly, knitwear was elevated with crystal-beaded fringe, which looked spectacular from afar but even more mesmerising upon closer inspection. De Sarno’s keen understanding of outerwear’s meticulous craftsmanship was evident in the thoughtful details, such as covered plackets and hidden buttoning on the sleeves of coats, bomber jackets, peacoats, and leather jackets. The slip dresses were another highlight, showcasing several interesting interpretations. Crafted with lace, they were adorned with embroideries, additional lacework, or velvets, amplifying the sensuality of the collection.
Moving onto accessories—there were a couple of stars that we foresee will be on the arm of every It girl in town in the future. First, a half-moon silhouette inspired by equestrian motifs from the Gucci archive, imbued with a contemporary flair and adorned with a fresh logo. Additionally, a leather bucket bag featuring a Bamboo handle captured attention with its blend of charm and striking aesthetic. The iconic Horsebit loafers have now evolved boldly in a five-inch platform edition. One particularly eye-catching accessory adorned the models’ necks—a resurfaced archival choker in galvanised gold featuring a studded motif subtly spelling out the word ‘Gucci’. Worn intertwined with a trailing ribbon, it adds an unmistakable touch of styling elegance to the overall collection.
See our POV of the show here.
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