We first took a little trip down nostalgia lane with Anya Hindmarch, whose collection revolved around the idea of pixilation and going back to retro arcade games. Boots and bags are doused in a pixellated design (Tetris, anyone?) and space monster motifs, reminiscent of Pac-Man and Space Invaders. Meanwhile, past season details were not forgotten: the Smiley face and eyes were present (all pixellated) alongside the fried egg which has morphed into a flower shape.
Mulberry’s AW16 presentation was a highly anticipated one, as creative director Johnny Coca made his debut collection for the British heritage brand at the historical Guildhall in London. Influenced by the work of Shakespeare, Coca finds inspiration in the diversity on the streets of London, echoing a statement he made prior to the show: “Modernity always needs roots in the past”. This cumulated to a collection where sharp tailoring rides against acute femininity; the runway saw rows of metal snaps adorned on sleek cape coats, and leather jackets layered on long, flowy silhouettes.
Mary Katrantzou leads us into a technicolour rodeo world this fall; opening the show was a series of American ’50s Western-inspired ensembles, from decorative boxy jackets to colourful printed scarves. Midway through the collection came shirtdresses adorned with symmetrical patterns and sparkly embellishments—kitsch chic at its best—before a string of extravagant tulle gowns closed out the show.
Speaking of tulle gowns, modern femininity took its place in dreamy creations at Alexander McQueen’s homecoming in London. It was hard to fault the collection as it spans from hints of masculinity in tailored suits to delicate proportions of lace and sheerness. Channeling “nighttime and daydreams”, Sarah Burton showcased exquisite workmanship in beautiful hand-painted leather coats and corsets, embellished gauze gowns and luxuriously quilted coats.
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