BURO Bites: Esca KL proves that rules are meant to be broken
Enjoy irresponsibly
In the first edition of our mini review series, we tell you all about Esca KL, Chinatown’s latest addition, where the bites are light-hearted yet expertly thought through.
Earlier this year, Chinatown welcomed a bright new kid on the block with the arrival of Esca KL. The concept of cuisines doesn’t exist here as chef YC Chong—of Terra Dining fame—plays with the dishes, flavours, techniques, and ingredients from all around the world. While the concept of melding such contrasting genres of food may seem commonplace nowadays, the team does it in a way that feels refreshing and genuinely out of a love for fun food. Spanish grilled octopus meets Malaysian sambal. North Africa’s harissa joins forces with a classic French beurre blanc. Refreshing crudo takes on the bright green mango salad…and the list goes on.
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Our meal covered most of the menu, so trust us when we say we have a pretty good idea of what Esca KL is all about. It started strong with its pumpkin salad with housemade granola, watercress, and a light calamansi dressing. Next was the barramundi crudo, one of my favourites for the night. The fish was served atop a green mango salad with lychee and winged beans, dressed with fresh coconut water and lime.
Other than the barramundi crudo, we also got a taste of the sea with a grilled octopus, served with sambal matah and triple-cooked potatoes. Meanwhile, the prawn toast was also a hit around the table, combining a juicy, sweet prawn paste with crispy toast. The addition of ebiko mayonnaise, pickled cornichons, and pickled onions added a much-needed acidic element to each bite, upping the overall complexity of the dish. For bao lovers, its lamb keema bao will do the trick at satisfying your cravings for something comforting yet out of the ordinary.
To end the meal, the team served its signature Textures of Yam, comprising none other than yam in different forms—hence the name. In an unusual turn of events, the dessert ended up being one of my favourites (being a savoury-leaning diner, this almost never happens) with its yam balls being of the perfect texture, nicely coated in a not-too-sweet cream sauce and topped with crispy yam as well as bruléed pineapple cubes. Also worth checking out is its cocktail programme, filled with drinks that will tick both the taste and whimsy boxes. My personal favourite: Hakka Gin, made of gin, Thai basil, and lemon. Make sure to book a table before going as the space is cosy and loyal diners are aplenty!
ESCA KL
Dishes we’d order again: Grilled octopus, prawn toast, barramundi crudo, lamb saddle, mala cauliflower, pureblood Wagyu, and Textures of Yam
Vegetarian/vegan-friendly? Yes, but with limited options.
Pork-free? Yes.
Address: 135G, Jalan Petaling, City Centre, 50000 Kuala Lumpur
Opening hours: 5pm to 11pm (Tuesday to Sunday)
Contact: +6017 982 5753
For more BURO-approved eats, click here.
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