Top 3 shows at Pitti Uomo 92 in Florence
Newness in the ancient city
Hugo by Hugo Boss
The magic behind Hugo's SS18 collection lay in its unconventional artistic angle. Juxtaposing carefree attitude with a heightened creative spirit with focus on voodoo symbolism conjured breezy ensembles like delicate mesh t-shirts and floaty silk organza dresses for women. Suits had stripped-back constructions and exaggerated proportions while outerwear challenged principles of balance by falling forwards and draping off the body.
Virgil Abloh banked on his millennial following for the message of the season. In terms of the clothes, a combination of fresh proportions and high-tech fabrication restructured the concept of tailoring to appeal to the upcoming generation. The thread that held the collection together however was more than a ground-breaking synthetic fibre. From the warning and rescue inspired colours and material, to the poetic projections on war and migration running along the façade, Abloh who grew up the son of an immigrant from Ghana, expounded upon the social and humanitarian responsibility he feels in light of recent volatile events.
Surprising those who expected a dose of J.W.A conceptualisation, Anderson's guest spot at Pitti Uomo 92 revealed a fashion forward "basic-ness" that questioned the idea of branded goods. Summer essentials were littered with campy printed hearts and spoofs of all-American branding like the 'Coca-Cola' typeface and logo intermingled with an Americana aesthetic. It-shoe alert: The J.W. Anderson x Converse All Stars. On this new vein of accessibility, it shall remain to be seen if it marks a new era for the brand.