Paco Rabanne
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Who: Julien Dossena has been at the creative helm of Paco Rabanne for five years and counting now.
Where: Dossena set up his “dream hotel lobby”, lush carpeting and all, in the Grand Palais.
The low-down: “I was searching for beauty—what does glamour mean now and how can you contextualise it in a contemporary way?” Dossena told WWD backstage before his show. It will seem that his answer to that is to go retro-futuristic, fusing his knack for innovative materials with a myriad of references that range from Old Hollywood glamour to ’70s glam rock to Paris’ dandy culture. If you’re not looking to stand out from the crowd, then this isn’t the collection for you. Doused in lavish details and textures, each look made a statement of its own—zebra prints are rendered in sequins, the brand’s signature chainmail creations came dripping in crystals or Art Deco patterns, floral frocks are crafted in velvet, pantsuits ran wild in prints, and cocktail ensembles are fitted with trains.
Buro loves: How excellent styling provided the golden contemporary touch to the retro references.
Off-White
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Who: Crash derby race car culture was on Virgil Abloh’s mind this season, more specifically, the metaphor of the checkered flag—the goal. The IT designer sought to design for the “empowered woman who wants to dress in a feminine but chic way”.
Where: The AccorHotels Arena was furnished with a neon orange checkerboard floor, where models criss-crossed each other as they strut down the huge runway.
The low-down: Off-White may be famed for streetwear, but Abloh’s couture sensibilities always had a moment on the runways, most often seen thriving in his unique clash-and-blend tailoring between the two worlds. Case in point: the “wrap” jumpsuit that flaunted equal parts elegance and cool, paired with elbow-length leather gloves. The check patterns were a recurring motif throughout the collection; on sweaters, jumpsuits, puffer coats and quilted duffels, and most notably in the ultra-billowy gowns on Adut Akech and Bella Hadid that closed the show. Making up the power quartet in the finale were Karlie Kloss and Gigi Hadid, who made grand entrances of their own in a sunny yellow number and a black pleated creation respectively.
Buro loves: Suits done right, and here we’re finding it in the fluid half wool, half satin petrol blue suit jacket that is going straight into our wishlist.
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