Junya Watanabe continues to impress with his deft hand at extreme constructions, and Haider Ackermann takes it home with a brilliant colour palette and his dandy yet sensual tailoring sensibilities
Amplifying his love for sculptural constructions, Junya Watanabe presented his "enhanced vision of street style" for SS17. As the show note states: "For him, neither extreme construction nor streetwear stand alone stylistically—they are complementary, and when merged together, stronger". His latest showing served as a convincing testament of that statement, with awe-inducing sheer geometric constructions layered on street-sensible band T-shirts, studded cargo pants, patchwork leggings and floral dresses.
While Haider Ackermann's last Spring collection took on a punk pastel palette, this time he went for "paradise birds on acid"—with hues ranging from electric yellow, copper and gold to varying shades of pink and lavender. His signature long and lean silhouettes persevered, many a time flourishing in languid shapes of floor-grazing, fluted skirts and pleated pants. Meanwhile leather jackets sported midriff cutouts and a number of pantsuit ensembles came down the runway sans tops, displaying Ackermann's tasteful take on sensuality with a side of punk.
Elsewhere at Acne Studios SS17, textiles and prints reigned; caftans, tunics, jumpsuits and knitwear came in loose, fluid silhouettes, and the paisley motif made a recurring appearance throughout the collection. The unfinished hems that accompanied a handful of looks added to the sense of ease that enveloped the comfortable, oversized shapes.