Hermès
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Where: Last season, I walked past a beautiful gated space on rue de Babylone wondering what it was. This season, that exact same space was the location for the Hermès show. Pre-show cocktails was held in the courtyard – thankfully, the cold spell had passed, making it a very pleasant evening.
Who: Hermès clients toting their Himalayan croc Birkins.
What: A couple of glasses of champagne later, guests were ushered through a corridor which opened up into a vast space filled with rows of triangular greenhouses. Smoke machines created a light veil of mist-like smoke that lent an air of mystery, while birdsong played over the speakers.
The Low-down: There are brands that are led by trends, and then those that eschew it. Hermès is firmly of the latter, staying true to its codes of luxury, quality and wearability. A rich slew of leather looks in a range of colours from black to red to mustard yellow underscored the brand’s mastery in leathercraft — in particular, the tan pieces stood out in their simplicity and luxe appeal, with a standout piece being the tan parka with fur-lined hood. Investment buys to take you through season after season.
Buro Loves: The ingenious strap attached to buckles on jackets, capes and blankets to be carried over the shoulder like a sling bag, and the leather outerwear pieces.
Altuzarra
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Who: As his label approaches its 10th anniverary, Joseph Altuzarra intended to craft the clothes around the idea of memories of women he grew up with — from his mother getting dressed to work to the women on the streets in 1980s Paris.
Where: The famous, art-deco restaurant La Coupole — a frequent jaunt of Picasso, Matisse and Jean-Paul Sartre back then.
The Low-down: “I was inspired by the women I work with … and the multiplicity of roles they play in their own lives,” said Altuzarra. What transpired was a collection that could be worn from the workplace to the weekend — boho-chic meets tailored simplicity, with pinstripes and dainty floral motifs making the bulk of it. Smart, cropped jackets and pencil skirts opened the lineup, transitioning to floral frocks and heavy knit sweaters; while the outerwear gamut ran from purple suede trench coats to tie-dye shearling jackets.
Buro Loves: An elegant three-piece suit in a plaid and floral motif that we can imagine the modern-day #BuroBossGirl in.
Junya Watanabe
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Who: Touted as the unofficial protégé for Rei Kawakubo, Junya Watanabe honed his skills at Comme des Garçons before kickstarting his namesake label in 1993. (He even has a collector’s group dedicated to his brand.)
Where: The collection was peppered with Eastern European street influences replete with ’80s punk styling.
The Low-down: Oversized silhouettes were a mainstay, as with the juxtaposition of workwear pieces with street culture. XXL men’s work blazers and jackets were reinterpreted, worn over floral leggings and ugly dad sneakers, while vintage-esque floral dresses were sewn together with knitted tops. Not to be missed are the soupçon of sporty elements in the form of jackets, including vibrant raincoats, puffer jackets, and an oversized bomber.
Buro Loves: Pinstriped jackets tailored askew and a handful of trench coats that spoke of nonchalance.
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