Calvin Klein gave us a cinematic treat, Coach 1941 turned goth, and Boss bade farewell to Jason Wu
Who: Selena Gomez, Winnie Harlow, Storm Reid, Sasha Lane and Kiko Mizuhara were some of the faces spotted at the front row
Where: Basketball City where a gothic-like "spectral charm" was invoked via video-projected trees and minimal lights.
The Low-down: It was a dark, romantic affair at Coach 1941 yesterday evening. Creative director Stuart Vevers wanted to explore the tension between the city and the American Southwest, and what transpired was a strong lineup of long dresses that were layered with delicate leather, lace and velvet details. He proved that outerwear was indeed his forte via leather jackets and shearling coats adorned with mystical symbols and details for that subversive twist, including whipstitching, thorny roses, and feathers. The accessory game wasn't one to be missed that night—the new Dreamer bag was unveiled on the runway, a three-compartment satchel with modern hardware and three bag charms that would likely be next season's It-bag.
Buro Loves: A head-to-toe black leather look perfectly demonstrated the house's leather craftsmanship, comprising a jacket that had whipstitching details, a fringed skirt and edgy studded boots.
Who: A celeb-strong #FROW include Nicole Kidman, Lupita Nyong’o, Isabelle Huppert, Margot Robbie, Millie Bobby Brown, A$AP Rocky, Cindy Crawford, Karlie Kloss, and more.
Where: The American Stock Exchange building was transformed into a cinematic soundstage with 19th century prairie barn references. Sterling Ruby's installations were part of the decor (fragments of it, anyway) alongside artwork by Andy Warhol; and for a snow-like effect, mountains of popcorn carpeted the floor—inedible of course, but alluding to the cinematic theme.
The Low-down: Creative director Raf Simons wanted to converge the "old worlds and new worlds" of America, drawing references from a wide pool i.e. the '60s Space Race, the 21st-century information age and more. Various elements of safety gear were rife throughout, from firefighter jackets and rubber hazmat boots to knit balaclavas and survival blankets. What's surprising were the feminine pieces in chiffon and patchwork (including prairie skirts!), all alluding to a rather Americana sentiment. A handful of oversized coats juxtaposed quite wonderfully with the looks—along with a bag of popcorn in each model's arm, no less.
Buro Loves: An arresting fur coat that was emblazoned with reflective stripes and a metallic silver dress made from lace and Mylar blankets—can't say that these aren't safe choices, yes?
Who: This is Jason Wu's final collection for Boss after five years as the artistic director of womenswear.
Where: Held at Cedar Lake Ensemble, the show was simple and straightforward to boot. All the models stood atop a rotating circular platform for the finale.
The Low-down: One to trust for timeless feminine silhouettes sans the froufrou, Wu delivered a "new take on femininity" for his last collection, focusing on fluid fabrics and sleek shapes. Exaggerated proportions were noted by way of finger-grazing sleeves and oversized coats, accessorised with a touch of glee (zebra-printed heels and bags). Amidst a sea of midnight blue, grey, and white, pops of cobalt blue and vivid orange were welcomed throughout.
Buro Loves: A sleeveless grey suit with uneven hemlines paired with baggy trousers—a worthy homage to the German house's tailoring prowess.