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MFW SS19 day 2: Max Mara, Fendi, Prada, Moschino and Emporio Armani

MFW SS19 day 2: Max Mara, Fendi, Prada, Moschino and Emporio Armani

Action packed

Text: Joan Kong

Five different fashion houses, five solid collections

Max Mara


Who:
Irina Shayk, Halima Aden, Karen Elson and Kaia Gerber were some of the models in the line-up.

Where: Creative director Ian Griffiths took inspiration from Max Mara's archives in the '80s by Anne-Marie Beretta—the designer behind the brand's iconic 101801 coat.

The Low-down: This season, it's all about the classics, and how to play them up. The brand's iconic beige hue was the mainstay of the collection, coupled with strong shoulders, asymmetrical hemlines and a dose of utilitarian vibe. Ruffles were not only sported on shirts and skirts—they were added to the back of the pumps too, giving every walk that extra flair. The pop of canary yellow gave the mostly neutral coloured ensembles its much appreciated jolt of energy.  

Buro Loves: The quasi-oilskins material which was an ode to the goddess of sea, Amphitrite. The slight sheen of the material gave the brand's signature trench and wool coats that bit of texture clash for added interest.  

 

Fendi

Who: The Ferragnez aka Fedez and Chiara Ferragni made their first fashion week appearance together at the Fendi show, alongside other celebrities including Winnie Harlow and Nicki Minaj.

Where: Held at its usual location at the Fendi HQ, the showspace was painted in a soft pink hue, and models walked out from under a huge Fendi logo.

The Low-down: The collection was a mix of sport luxe and utility aesthetics. The former can be seen in the form of sports bras and bomber jackets, while the latter, in parkas with cargo pockets and the array of buckled belts. Transparency was a big thing this season too. Vinyl outerwear had leather trims that tuned up the rugged feel, layered over an athleisure combo, or a flowy shirtdress for a hint of femininity. The show closed with two flirty frocks with oh-so-pretty floral embroideries that made us yearn for spring in this autumn heat. Bags-wise, some of the brand's It-pieces were given a modern update. The Peekaboo will be available in the form of a belt bag, as well as the Baguette which was introduced in a bigger size in denim with red trimmings.

Buro Loves: All the millennial must-haves, from belt bags to biker shorts, as seen on Bella Hadid.

 

Prada

Who: As mentioned earlier, Prada is unveiling the second chapter of its 'Prada Invites' initiative this season, and has tapped three leading female architects—Cini Boeri, Elizabeth Diller and Kazuyo Sejima-to come up with unique pieces using the brand's signature nylon.

Where: While the previous season's show was held over multiple floors at the higher levels in the then-newly completed Torre building at Fondazione Prada, this round, guests were ushered into a huge performance space on the ground floor with geographic coordinates marked in grids under each seat.

The Low-down: Compared to the neon-filled Autumn/Winter 2018 collection, this season's looks may seem pared down at first glance, but they definitely aren't. From the embellished headband and the sexy bodysuits, to the trendy nylon outerwear and sporty sock heels, every single piece had its own charm, targeted towards the new generation of consumers—the youths (Miuccia Prada dislikes the term millennial). A-line silhouettes in the form of babydoll dresses and flowy skirts will definitely appeal to that crowd, as well as the trendy biker shorts and the loafers. The plethora of prints—tie-dye, graphic and cityscape—gave the overall vibe that extra zest.

Buro Loves: The bodysuits with strategically placed straps that were made to flaunt the décolletage, and the T-shirt dresses at the end that gave off that sense of feminine ease.  

  

Moschino

Who: We've been spotting many dreamy wedding gowns on the runway this season, but if we had to name the most memorable piece, Moschino will be at the top of our list. Gigi Hadid closed the show in a short bridal dress (while Here Comes the Bride played in the background, no less), with an ultra-long veil that was adorned with butterfly appliqués "floated" on the stage with the help of some puppeteers.

Where: The runway backdrop was of a design studio, where Jeremy Scott showcased his "sketches" (print) looks.

The Low-down: You can always count on Jeremy Scott to put on a show every season, and this time, it's no different. The show invite came in the form of colourful marker pens, and backstage before the show, he jokingly told WWD, "The fashion system has sped up so much that, this time, I didn't have time to finish my work. All I have to show is my sketches." Squiggle and dotted prints (in every colour possible) were on almost every look that radiated '80s vibes—there were poofy sleeved tops, prim pantsuits and strong shouldered dresses, some complete with an oversized bow. The brand's signature kitsch was of course in the mix too. There was a gown that were made with tiers of gold needles (complete with a thimble), a wrapped dress with a bolt of fabric as the train, and a scissors gown that (surprisingly) gave off a sensual appeal. The Moschino SS19 line may not be the wildest compared to the previous collections, but it was definitely a fun one.  

Buro Loves: While Moschino's looks may not always be the most wearable of the lot, this season, we can see ourselves sporting some of the looks, such as the short frocks that were cinched around the waist, followed by the chic, tailored pantsuits.

 

Emporio Armani:

Who: Two words: Robbie Williams. After the show ended, the British singer took the stage and performed a medley of his hit songs such as Rock DJ, Angels and She's the One, on top of a cover of George Michael's Freedom. His outfit of choice? A sequin blazer and skirt combo that definitely fit his cheeky vibe. Watching him from the front row, are celebrities such as Leona Lewis, Patrick Schwarzenegger, Cameron Dallas and Sam Claflin.

Where: Being the last show of a jam-packed day two of Milan Fashion Week SS19, Emporio Armani made sure to give us an experience that'll end our night with a bang, with a show held at the Linate Airport. Although the brand has had its signage plastered on the roof of a hangar at Linate Airport since 1996, this is the first time the brand has ever done a show here.

The Low-down: For its one-off coed show this season, Mr. Armani made sure guests were in for a one-of-a-kind experience. Held in the airport itself, guests had to "check in" and go through passport controls before arriving at the show venue, where a crowd of 2,300 people were in attendance. In an interview with WWD, the designer explained the thought process behind the collection this season. "There's a new Emporio today, and a new commercial outlook and I thought 'Why not look back to that time when we put up the sign?' For me, the past is always present." The brand showcased over 200 looks that revolved around the brand's strengths—airy fabrics and soft tailoring in the form of outerwear, pantsuits and more. Peppered throughout the collection, were some shiny sequin pieces that added some glitz and glamour.

Buro Loves: Clothing aside, the SS19 accessories were not to be missed. Adorning the female models' feet, were architectural booties that gave the overall collection that modern edge, and oversized necklaces that helped to amp up the ante of the slouchy silhouettes.

 

MFW SS19 day 2 in 10 pictures:

Get daily updates on Milan Fashion Week SS19 here

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