Men’s Fashion Week AW26: The Best of Prada, Dior and more
Fresh rules
The Autumn/Winter 2026 menswear season has been full of new beginnings, heartfelt farewells, and bold reinventions. Giorgio Armani ushers in a season of measured elegance with Leo Dell’Orco at the helm, while Hermès closes the chapter on Véronique Nichanian’s 37-year tenure. At Dior, Jonathan Anderson pushes the House codes into fresh territory. Here are five standout collections from the season.
Giorgio Armani
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Creative director: Leo Dell’Orco
Venue: Via Borgonuovo 21
Highlights of the collection: Dell’Orco’s debut lands with quiet authority. Colour is subtle yet decisive, radiant yet measured. The tailoring takes gentle liberties, and fabrics such as velvet, crêpe, and chenille move fluidly with the body, exemplifying quintessential Italian craftsmanship. Soft, tactile knits form an essential part of the collection, highlighted by a geometric jacquard cardigan designed with Alanui.
Key pieces from the line: Not to be missed are classic staples—relaxed blousons, enveloping coats, and wide trousers. Winterwear shimmers in soft velvety textures, while accessories—oversized totes, crossbody bags, graphic belts, wide-brimmed hats, and pared-back eyewear—punctuate the line with subtle impact, completing the collection with modern, understated flair.
Prada
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Creative directors: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Venue: Deposito of the Fondazione Prada
Highlights of the collection: The ‘Before and Next’ collection explores the space between memory and modernity. Timeworn fabrics meet precise, contemporary construction, highlighting the continuity of style and the weight of memory in clothing. Each piece is stripped to its essentials, inviting curiosity through restraint. Even the setting mirrors this tension, transforming hidden spaces into a stage for observation and reflection.
Key pieces from the line: Silhouettes stretch longer and leaner, from overcoats to bags. Trench coats are reinvented with colourful capes stacked like architectural layers. Collaged prints become a time machine, stitching fragments of antiquity and the Renaissance into pieces that carry history like a shadow.
Dior
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Creative director: Jonathan Anderson
Venue: Musée Rodin
Highlights of the collection: The collection fuses old-world sophistication with a shock of modern energy. Poiret’s influence runs through flowing silhouettes, exaggerated shapes, and ornate details that feel both theatrical and wearable. Spiky yellow hair and statement epaulettes channel the aristo-youth vibe, while classic Dior codes twist into unexpected forms.
Key pieces from the line: Tailcoats and elongated jackets sweep by like statements in motion, while cropped Bar jackets sit sharply over slim trousers. Outerwear teeters between drama and utility—cape-inspired bombers, balloon-back field jackets, and cocooning coats all leave their mark. Sequinned tanks, rhinestone polos, and patterned trousers inject cheeky bursts of personality, keeping the runway playful and unpredictable.
Hermès
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Creative director: Véronique Nichanian
Venue: Palais Brogniart
Highlights of the collection: After nearly four decades at Hermès, Nichanian’s final menswear show feels personal, reflective, and steeped in memory. Clothes crafted to last, rich in detail and craft, fill the runway like old friends revisited. Screens hanging above loop her signature bows—a sweet, tech-savvy nod to a celebrated career.
Key pieces from the line: The runway becomes a conversation between fabrics. Cashmere whispers softness, leather adds weight, wool brings structure, and shearling shifts with every step, layering and colliding to create textures that almost move on their own. Pinstripe suits, leather coats, and plaid sweaters are studies in contrast, anchored by boxy bags and leather boots that keep the collection grounded and elegant.
Louis Vuitton
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Creative director: Pharrell Williams
Venue: Fondation Louis Vuitton
Highlights of the collection: At the heart of the show sits Drophaus, a prefabricated home designed by Pharrell in collaboration with architectural firm Not A Hotel. Around it, the future dandy takes shape, blending 1980s-inspired retro-futurism with modern tailoring. Classic menswear colours—reds, oranges, blues—are amplified with playful volume and unexpected silhouettes. Reflective yarns reinvent traditional tailoring, while soft, breathable textiles bring comfort and ease to every piece.
Key pieces from the line: Trompe l’oeil and material alchemy define the collection, turning classic menswear into playful illusions. Overdyed vicuña-thread trousers, coats, hoodies, and scarves mingle with scuba-inspired wool that mimics neoprene. Knits stretch to reveal hidden Monogram patterns, and the Speedy P9 pops in glow-effect or reversible Buttersoft leather. Trunks become miniature windows onto the future, adorned with stained glass and leather marquetry that frame sweeping views of Paris.
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