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London Fashion Week AW18: Highlights of Day 1

Eccentric start

London Fashion Week AW18: Highlights of Day 1
Bora Aksu channels James Barry/Margaret Ann Bulkley, Marta Jakubowski puts a playful spin on '90s power dressing, and Mulberry shone with quintessentially British inspirations

Bora Aksu

Who: Central Saint Martin graduate Bora Aksu is known for his distinctively romantic aesthetic that carries a darker twist.

Where: Other than a grey wash of colour, Aksu kept his show set bare and minimal at the BFC Show Space, where most of the LFW action is taking place. 

The Low-down: Channeling Margaret Ann Bulkley—one of the most well-respected surgeons from the 19th century who spent 56 years of her life disguised as a man, going by the name James Barry—the collection wore doses of masculinity with boyish tailoring and pant suits in muted hues, juxtaposed with the ultra feminine, which came through in waves of romantic dresses, often in tulle and tiers. "I didn't want to do something unisex or genderless, I wanted to separate the two and showcase that a woman can embrace both sides," said the designer. 

Buro Loves: We'd say he sure did what he set out to do, with much to love from the aforementioned both sides; the pinstriped culottes and matching blazer will fit quite nicely in a work wardrobe, and a quick change to one of the sweet tulle dresses will whisk the Bora Aksu girl straight to a garden party. 

 

Marta Jakubowski

Who: This is Marta Jakubowski's sophomore runway show. The designer was born in Poland, grew up in Germany, and graduated with an MA from the Royal College of Art in London in 2014.

Where: Like Bora Aksu, Jakubowski showcased her latest creations at the BFC Show Space.

The Low-down: '90s power dressing finds new life as Jakubowski sets out to make clothes that are "practical, chic, and feminine". With Whitney Houston's 'I'm Every Woman' playing in the background, models made their carefree struts in loosely tailored pant suits with big shoulders, funky plaids and ruffles. Lingerie also made a statement with the no-shirt styling, peeking through in bold, contrasting hues.  

Buro Loves: A classic black pant suit made fun by way of a ruffled peplum silhouette. 

 

Mulberry

Who: Creative director Johnny Coca stages his first see-now-buy-now show for Mulberry this season.

Where: Mulberry takes over the magnificent 18th-century Spencer House in central London to celebrate the launch of the Spring/Summer '18 collection with #BeyondHeritage, a series of presentations and workshops.

The Low-down: The collection brimmed with quintessentially British flourishes: vibrant tea dresses with ruffles or embellishments for garden parties, ensembles decked in bold stripes reminiscent of chairs you'll find at a British seaside, and extravagant millinery created in collaboration with Noel Stewart—those heading to the royal wedding or Ascot Ladies' Day later this year will find plenty of statement headwear to choose from. Ruffles rippled from the clothes to the delightfully quaint shoes, where ruched ballet-inspired pumps sat on resin heels resembling porcelain china.

Buro Loves: The eccentric, playful colour palette that ranged from sweet pinks and  yellows to cobalt blues and lime greens. 

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Text: Su Fen Tan

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