Inspired by British artist Henry Moore’s semi-abstract sculptures that manipulates the female form, Christopher Bailey’s second see-now-buy-now collection for Burberry was a play on form and silhouette. Understandably toned down compared to the confounding works of Moore—”His shoulders are suddenly up here, the breasts were suddenly down here” —Bailey told WWD that he liked the idea of deconstructing the body by moving the lines and pieces in an unconventional way. Case in point: Single sleeved cable knit jumpers that crossed the body at a diagonal, asymmetrical coats with massive lapels and curved sleeves, and caplets with layers of fabric made to extend and emphasise.
Trust Christopher Kane to revive another trend from fashion’s dumpsite. If last season’s bombshell was anything to go by, crinkly taffeta getups are the next bejewelled crocs. His knack for reimagining the retired is beautifully narrated here. Correlating the duo chrome quality of taffeta to that of trendy holographic materials in group of consecutive looks, Kane’s iridescent proposals were intriguing. His hodgepodge of influences also gave us sharp, clinical shapes via inspirational lab-wear, dusty coral damasks courtesy of fabric mill tributes and rad spaceship prints by artist, Ionel Talpazan.
What happens when you mix the Ottoman empire with powdery romance of the British Isles? Erdem Moralioglu who is of English-Turkish parentage dreams of an encounter between his great grandmothers. From there, he spins a tale of opulence and enchantment to create a tapestry of their melded heritage. The poetic dreamscape kicked off with structured looks in woven brocades and heavy silks, patchwork execution of ottoman manuscripts decorated fluted-forms while demure guipure alongside lavish velvet devoré expounded the fantasy.
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