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LFW SS19 day 3: Burberry, Erdem and Christopher Kane

LFW SS19 day 3: Burberry, Erdem and Christopher Kane

London calling

Text: Stephanie Boey

Riccardo Tisci’s official debut for Burberry, Erdem gets historical with Victorian LGBTQIA icons and Christopher Kane’s tongue in cheek take on the C-string

Burberry

Who: Riccardo Tisci makes his grand debut as Burberry's Chief Creative Officer. 

Where: The maze-like zigzagged runway was hosted at the South London Mail Centre, nary a celeb in sight at the front row according to the New York Times' Vanessa Friedman—All eyes on the clothes.

The Low-down: 134 looks were divided into three parts—Refined, Relaxed and Evening. The plain, long trenchcoat famously synonymous to the brand was rehashed with a variety of trimmings and embellishments (feathers and pearls, gold metal rings and mini silver rivets) in familiar shades of cream, nude and beige. 

Buro loves: The traditional check reinvented into a stripe. Be it boxed or lined, the pattern is unmistakably Burberry with its iconic use of white, black and red on tan. 

 


Erdem

Who: The collection was inspired by Stella and Fanny, also known as Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton who lived together as women in the 1860s. 

Where: The National Portrait Gallery. Erdem Moralioglu had access to the photography archive where he found more similar subject matters to pull influence from. 

The Low-down: It was once forbidden for two men to live together in the height of Victorian morality. His show notes read, "Far beyond any perceived thrill of cross-dressing, these were individuals with the courage to explore the power of self-expression." 

Buro loves: The modern interpretation of Victorian times, strengthened with history and a tale of diversity. That, and the ruffled high-neck collars made popular in the era.

 

Christopher Kane

Who: Spring/Summer 2019 sees an interesting inspo duo—David Attenborough and Marilyn Monroe 

The Low-down: The collection is called sex in nature (the two names above finally click now, don't they?) The show's soundtrack consisted of Attenborough's commentaries on mating and the late Monroe's thoughts on being a sex symbol. Long after her passing, she remains to be an icon. Exaggerated shoulders and sharp bias cuts make a geometrical take on the hourglass silhouette. 

Buro loves:  Diet Prada may have been joking but given the theme of the collection, it's highly possible that the lace embellishments are indeed C-strings, or atleast inspired by them. The shape and fabrication directly points to the less covered-up cousin of the G-string—innovative and hilariously tongue-in-cheek. 


LFW SS19 day 3 in 10 pictures: 

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