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The best of MFW AW19 day 2: Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Fendi and Moschino

The best of MFW AW19 day 2: Max Mara, Emporio Armani, Fendi and Moschino

Ciao Milano

Text: Joan Kong


Image: IMaxtree

These big fashion houses continue to bring their A-game at MFW this season

Max Mara

Who: 28-year-old Australian actress Elizabeth Debicki who was honoured with the Women in Film Max Mara Face of the Future award was spotted front row at the show. Spotted on the catwalk, was '90s supermodel Eva Herzigova who closed the show in an all-black ensemble.

Where: The brand showcased its Autumn/Winter 2019 collection at the light-filled Bocconi University—a newer and more modern location compared to its previous venue.

The low-down: "Glamour is the magic ingredient that puts the power into power dressing," states the show notes. At times where female empowerment takes center stage, the question is: how does fashion come into that equation? Creative director Ian Griffiths' take, was a collection that was tailored to perfection. Monochrome ivory, camel, and charcoal looks were anything but boring, starting from the plush coat, down to the sleek blazers, turtleneck tops and the pair of thigh-high boots. Result? A collection of stronger, smarter and sassier looks that are the epitome of a Max Mara boss lady.

Buro loves: Giving the neutral hued collection a break, were trio of models who walked down the runway in bold monochrome tones and animal print-on-print looks which we'll wear in a heartbeat.

 

Emporio Armani

Who: Did you know: Giorgio Armani turns 85 this year.

Where: After an extravagant show at the Linate airport that ended with a surprise performance by Robbie Williams, Emporio Armani is back at its home ground this season, showing its Autumn/Winter 2019 collection at the Armani Theatre.

The low-down: Compared to its Spring/Summer 2019 co-ed show, this season's womenswear collection had fewer looks, with a strong focus on what Mr. Armani does best-outerwear. Oversized and figure-accentuating jackets in different textures and cuts graced the runway, combined with oh-so-feminine dresses in an array of bright hues, and some, worn with latex leggings for that slight edge. The floral and geometric motifs at the start gave the solid coloured looks that pick-me-up.

Buro loves: Fashion Editor Joan has a newfound love for the colour after a one-week style challenge, so needless to say the second half of the collection that was filled with red was right up her alley.

 

Fendi

Who: Fendi paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld in the best way possible, with a "Love KL" backdrop set at the entrance of the runway, and at the end of the show, after Silvia Venturini Fendi took an emotional final bow—sans Karl for the first time in forever—a tribute video showing the fashion icon sketching his outfit on his first day at the brand in 1965 played while guests held back tears—it was a touching moment, and he will be greatly missed.

The low-down: At the bottom of Fendi's show notes, was a paragraph from Silvia Venturini Fendi. "The bond between Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi is fashion's longest love story, one that will continue to touch our lives for years to come. I am profoundly saddened by his passing and deeply touched by his constant care and perseverance until the very end. When we called just a few days before the show, his only thoughts were on the richness and beauty of the collection. It's a true testament to his character. He shall be so missed." And for the final collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld, it was a celebration of his craft at the Roman fashion house that spanned across 54 years. Lightness in the form of tulle and silk was juxtaposed with chic structured tailoring complete with pagoda shoulders, nipped-at-the-waist silhouettes and laser-cut details. Pointed shirt collars—in cotton and leather—were influenced by the Kaiser's signature style.

Buro loves: The return of Karl's curling 'Karligraphy" FF logo, emblazoned on silk tops and dresses, and on cabochon buttons and intarsia fur.

 

Moschino

Who: Jeremy Scott's girls such as Joan Smalls, Jourdan Dunn, Stella Maxwell and Soo Joo Park all strutted their stuff on the runway, but Gigi Hadid was noticeably absent this season.

Where: Welcome to Moschino's take on The Price is Right game show! Instead of its usual venue, Jeremy Scott chose to show at the Milano Convention Centre, MiCo, with a runway surrounding the stage, where models "promoted" products before making their rounds on the catwalk.

The low-down: The Moschino invitation usually gives us a clue as to what the theme of the show is, but this time, it came in the form of a black-and-yellow tag with our name written on it, and we were instructed to "pull and wear it" for the event. But that's apparent as the curtains were lifted to reveal the stage that's reminiscent of "The Price is Right" game show, and guests became the TV show audience for the night. The first few opening looks were dresses that were emblazoned with dollar bills, while the eveningwear—some in full sequins and some, ruched with cut-outs and lined with crystals—were surprisingly wearable in a (usually) literal collection. Take a closer look and you'll notice the appearances of the trolls, including a slot machine-inspired look worn by Irina Shayk.

Buro loves: Jeremy Scott really does kitsch best. Where do we start? The cash register bag in gold? The Moschino toothpaste bag? Or the laundry detergent backpack? But we know which look topped them all: the TV dinner ensemble, complete with vegetables, meatloaf, gravy and mashed potatoes. It was definitely the highlight of the show. 

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