Autumn/Winter 2021 highlights: Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton
After almost a month of exciting digital shows, Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Week has officially come to an end. Our last roundup of the season features powerhouses Chanel, Miu Miu, and Louis Vuitton, which presented some of the most noteworthy AW21 collections.
Watch the shows below:
As the Grand Palais—Chanel’s usual show venue—undergoes a three-year renovation, Virginie Viard took the opportunity to explore a new presentation format. Inspired by the shows that the late Karl Lagerfeld used to tell her about, where “models would dress themselves and do their make-up”, the designer held a warm and lively showcase at the prestigious nightclub Castel, filmed and directed by Inez & Vinoodh.
To reflect the dynamic show, it’s only natural that the collection matches the spirit. Contrasts—between volumes, materials, and vibes—were Viard’s focus this season. Influenced by ski holidays and the Parisian cool from the ‘70s to now, on one hand, there were ultra-chic tweed looks that were given that sensual allure with sheer details, as well as metallic sequinned ensembles that are made for the dance floor. On the other, après ski styles—from ski suits to shearling outerwear to furry boots—gave that juxtaposition. Winter travels may have to wait for now, but the collection proved that whenever and wherever that may be, it’s one worth looking forward to.
Speaking of skiing, Miu Miu also ventured into winter sportswear this season, but to amp up the adventure, the brand held a show on the snowy mountains. “With a fashion show in the snow, garments can challenge the perception and context to combine different intentions, dreams, and realities to create different characters. The notion of a dreamlike state is romanced through exaggeration, when the fragile is reinvented to become brave showing strength, fragility, courage, and aggression. The realities inside all our fantasies. Practical fantasies,” states the show notes.
Miu Miu’s idea of a practical fantasy? By blending innerwear and outerwear. Puffy ski suits (in pretty pastels and eye-catching quilting) and chunky knits were paired with slinky slip dresses and bikinis, and completing the get-ups, were furry thigh-high snow boots and knitted ski masks.
Travels may be out of the question for now, but creative director Nicolas Ghesquière provided the perfect escapism this season, with a collection that goes back in time. Referencing the Golden Age and the Age of Enlightenment, the line-up was filled with Greco-Roman inspiration, and at the core of it all, is the Maison’s collaboration with renowned Italian design brand Fornasetti.
Known for its figurative illustrations, the atelier’s artworks—derived from its own archives—were heavily peppered throughout. The prints were combined with Ghesquière’s contemporary design, where he explored the concept of ‘contrapposto’, a stance where one’s shoulders and arms twist off-axis from the hips and legs. The result? Elongated and exaggerated silhouettes, which were all finished with a touch of kitsch.
For more Autumn/Winter 2021 Fashion Month stories, click here.