At Maison Margiela, John Galliano sought out to answer this question with a touch of flair: “How do you dress in haste?” If you eyeball the collection from far, it did seem to cover all the bases of dressing up in a flurry (but with a high fashion spin to it, of course). We’re talking trench coats and jackets cut out and reinvented as bustier dresses, deconstructed T-shirts—only the shell retained—embellished with ostrich feathers and jewels, and skirts made from rose-patterned jacquard towels. The last look had a Galliano touch to it—the perfect embodiment of a harried passenger who had just disembarked from a long flight, replete with a neck cushion, sleep mask, and pillow-like bag (actually the brand’s new tufted leather ‘Glam Slam’ bag) in hand.
Dries Van Noten brought new meaning to the phrase ‘prints on prints’ with adroitness that only he, the maestro of prints, could deliver. “We always say fashion can be a reflection of what’s happening in the world. But fashion can be also be escapism,” he said. The Belgian designer upped the ante this season with a deluge of prints in dizzying colours and variations, all executed with equanimity given the exuberance of it all. Examples include lip motifs, embellished starfish prints, couture flowers from the ’60s, and boots in colourful brocade. A handful of pared-down looks were spruced with the finest details, from a floral-printed scarf tucked beneath a belt of a black jacket to a black pantsuit overlaid with a sheer mesh decked with embellishments.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s Oriental-tinged collection at Rochas had all the makings of exaggerated opulence. He made sure to toe the line between genteel and gaudy very carefully, exploring voluminous silhouettes in sumptuous fabrics that emanated an air of regality. Highlights include a satin trapeze dress decked with bright yellow blooms, a floral gown with a ruffled bodice that was styled with an embroidered belt bag on the waist (need), and a glamorous brocade coat with sculptural sleeves paired with matching opera gloves.
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