All eyes were on Jacquemus as the brand kicked off Paris Fashion Week a day earlier this season due to the availability of its venue—the Picasso museum, and the hype definitely paid off. Inspired by his childhood memories of his mother during their summer holidays on the beach in the South of France, Simon Porte Jacquemus designed this collection around the sensual idea of “draping fabrics around that summer woman”. A muted colour palette highlighted the construction of the pieces, with drapes and wraps creating alluring silhouettes. Pops of bright yellow and polka-dot prints gave the pieces that pick-me-up, but it was the accessories that took the centre stage. XXL sun hats, long beaded earrings (either mismatched or worn singularly) and cute micro bags in various hues gave the pared-down collection the perfect balance.
Dior’s view on feminism was made clear since its creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut a year ago, but for SS18, she doubled down on her narrative by opening the show with a “Why Have There Been No Great Women Artists” striped top on Sasha Pivovarova, which is a reference to Brooklyn-based feminist Linda Nochlin’s 1971 essay. The collection was mainly inspired by fellow feminist, French model-turned-artist Niki de Saint Phalle’s quirky sculptures and paintings of women. Psychedelic colours in the form of quirky dragon and heart-shaped prints (in sequins) will definitely tug the heartstrings of the millennials. Dior’s eveningwear with tulle skirts were a recurring note, but this time in bright sequins that lent a glamorous finish. Other noteworthy pieces include patchwork denim pantsuit, colour-blocked leather jumpsuit and Breton stripes in an array of colours.
In a backstage interview, creative director Anthony Vaccarello told Vogue (insert link), “I want to tell the story of Saint Laurent, of Paris—nothing more deeply than that,” and he definitely did by showcasing at the fountain of Trocadero, with the iconic Eiffel Tower shining brightly in the background; can any show get better than this? The SS18 collection screams girls-just-wanna-have-fun in many ways; ruffles, feathers and glitters were reinforced with skin-baring deep V necklines and legs-for-days separates, mostly worn with leather pieces for its signature edge, but that’s not it. The strong looks were juxtaposed with soft and billowy pieces, such as silk blouses and crocheted tops that are light, airy and slightly boho. Shoes wise, sexy lace-up ankle-strap heels and pumps are dance-floor must-haves, but Saint Laurent added boots from ankle to knee length—in fringe, no less—into the mix. We love how the footwear sashayed down the runway—almost stealing the clothes’ thunder.
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