For her first runway show, Gabriela Hearst made sure that it steered clear from the customary, over-the-top direction as most fashion labels would. The phrase ‘waste not, want not’ was likely on her mind this morning—”I am so proud of how waste conscious it was,” quote her Instagram post. Cashmere pillows on the seats for guests were knitted by an Uruguay nonprofit, using left over yarn from her sweaters, while the metal floors at her show were to be donated post-event. Clothes wise, the collection had her signature written all over: classic, luxe silhouettes wearable from day to night. A handful are worth mentioning for a semblance of modern refinement, including a satin dress in a decadent hue of gold with tassels trailing neckdown to the skirt hemline, double-breasted coats with subtly flared skirts, and velvet bathroom robe-trenches that would up your outerwear game in a flash.
At Tory Burch, the unmistakable gold ‘TB’ embroidered logo and multitude of plaid were a dead giveaway to her references this season—Katharine Hepburn’s glam girl character Tracy Lord in the 1940 reel The Philadelphia Story. All-white, immaculately-put looks opened the show, later on a handful of floral prints took center stage alongside preppy knit sweaters and plaid skirts and trousers. The last few monochromatic looks spoke of ornate nonchalance, one that echoed brilliantly after gold and blue lace offerings.
We never thought we’d see prarie flowers coalescing with 1980s hip hop details (read: baseball caps and chunky sneakers), but Stuart Vevers did just that as he referenced the great America for this season’s lineup—which admittedly could have fared worse if not for the copious amounts of shearling. The outerwear range was strong, featuring all of Coach’s classics (varsity and biker especially) remade with patches, fringe and fur collars, while accessories took on an interesting twist i.e shearling sandals and fur-lined caps.
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